The North Coast

The quiet seaside town of Lovina lies on the north coast of Bali, just a few hours drive from Denpasar.The pace here is decidedly unhurried and regular visitors and ex-patriots often prefer this coast to the crowded beaches of the south.

Black volcanic sand is common to all beaches on the north coast. It varies from reasonably soft at Lovina, to course and even rocky to the east. Good coral formations are scattered along this coast and a number of snorkeling and scuba operators offer day trips to suit all levels. Dolphin sightings are frequent, viewing excursions equally common. A relatively calm ocean means there is no surfing on this coast.

Lovinas beach vendors may be fewer in number and their doggedness less than the south, but they remain eager. I barely had my motorcycle on its stand before I was surrounded by hawkers. From sarongs and jewelry to fruits and beverages, each offered a “special price” "for good luck" complaining business was slow. Tourism is obviously down since the bombs and I try to be sympathetic. Nonetheless, being a constant sales target also wears thin. Joking always lightens the moment.

“Who gets good luck? You? Or me?” I ask.

They are united that they get the good luck.

“What about me? No good luck for me?” I keep on.

We all enjoy some laughs, but no amount of humour gets away from the bottom line – making a sale. Made has sarongs and I spot one with nice colours. I nearly fell over at the asking price of $25. Recognizing my shock, she suggests I make a price. My $5 offer is taken as a sign I want to bargain and she counters quickly with “Buy two get better price.” I tell her I only want one. She starts to slowly lower her price hoping I will up my offer. I stick at $5 and a lengthy negotiation period that increasingly involves the other vendors ensues. Made encourages me to raise my offer but I hold.

“No, I go bankroopt,” she claims, but eventually agrees to sell for my price.

This has given the jewelry vendor hope and he moves in with all kinds of shell trinkets. I tell him I am not interested but this does not discourage the true salesman. He starts to pull out a variety of pieces; for my girlfriend (“I do not have one”), for my niece (“at least I have one”), for my mother (“yes, she is still alive”) and so on. After a while he understands I am not buying and packs up. The drink vendor remains undeterred and does not stop holding his pricelist in front of me until I climb on my motorcycle and drive off.

Toward the island center is Git Git (Twin) Waterfall, a perennial favourite with tour groups. Arriving before the buses is essential to have any chance of enjoying the peace and nature of Git Git. The area is lush green and a number of falls and pools are only a short walk. The cascades down a variety of levels and there are a number of places along the road to park and explore. Plenty of vendors offer sodas, water and snacks along the paths. When the buses arrive, it is time to leave.

East of Lovina is the sleepy town of Amed, popular with scuba divers. The waters are clear, the coral colourful and fish life abundant. The World War II supply ship USS Liberty, torpedoed in 1942 and beached near Amed, is a famous wreck dive.

This area is arid, the mountains rising sharply from the ocean. Any moisture that collects is showered on the southern side. Large volcanic rocks dominate the landscape while an occasional acacia tree delivers a shade of pale green to palette of browns. The road rises and plunges, connecting cliffside fishing communities and farming villages where cows and goats wander freely.

Turning south, I catch sight of a surf break. I mark the area relative to a tower and work my way in that direction. In the town of Ujung, I stop at the water palace to admire the views to the mountains and the sea.

Focused on the surf break, I crisscross rice paddies and backtrack through coconut palm plantations until I break out the coast to come upon a dozen surfers enjoying a point break. With only two foreigners in the crowd I realize I have discovered one of Bali’s legendary secret spots.

Kuwi, a local boy, asks how I found this place. Explaining that it was unmistakable from the cliffs northward he smiled and said: “Good, no surfers ever come from there – no surfing in the north.” I asked the name of the place and when he told me, he requested I keep it to myself.

“It will be difficult to keep this a secret,” I observed.

“I know,” he said, “that is why I have a guest house nearby and rent surf boards!”

Tim Morch, Copyright 2006