Sunday, November 16, 2003

Cons and Cards

A Not-So New Bangkok Scam

Exhausted from over a day of non-stop travel, I exited the Bangkok airport into the heavy heat of the city. The familiar assault to the senses was instant. The humid air encircled me and exhaust fumes hit the back of the throat like cheap pot. he non-stop noise characteristic of the city rattled in my ears as the taxi pulled away.

Even in the wee hours the streets are lively. Motorcycles and tuk-tuks are everywhere. The tuk-tuk, the ubiquitous three-wheeled taxis that ply the streets of every Thai city and town get their name for the rhythmic sound of the engine. They have become a symbol of Thailand.

Tuk-tuk drivers in Bangkok have become equally famous for their gem scams. irtually everyone who visits Bangkok has either heard of or experienced this renowned confidence game. Invariably, stories start by accepting a "flee lide" (free ride) to a "guess how" (Guest House). The driver will tell you that just last week he helped a friend earn $2000 due to a special offer. An “official receipt” is often produced as verification. This is the short version, as a successful scam involves a lengthy buildup. Ever wonder why it is called a confidence game?

The classic version sees the mark on a city wide tour of gem shops. A variety of characters attempt to sell gems that turn out to be worthless. If the unlucky victim can even lead the police to the scene, the operation has vanished. This happens so often it has become a joke. A special sale in honor of the Kings Birthday or a new shipment from Burma leaves one with less money but more wise. In spite of repeated forewarning, many fall victim to their own greed.

Thailands reputation as the "Land of Smiles" often lulls people into a sense of security. The Kingdom is filled with many wonderful, honest people. If you are even slightly open, rewarding experiences are common.

On a busy Bangkok street, I met a pleasant man and his cousin. Lek introduced himself as an immigration officer at the airport.His cousin Emm taught English at the kindergarten level in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. When they learned I was Canadian, they told me their cousin, Susan, had won an exchange at the University of Toronto to study business administration. Asking if they could trouble me for some information about Toronto, we sat down for coffee. Lek spotted my photo equipment and observed it looked very professional, very expensive. After a polite conversation, he asked would I might come to his home, meet his family and talk to Susan in person.

Sensing a setup, we agreed to meet the following morning. Emm gave me her cell phone number in case there was a problem. They suggested I bring my camera for photos of their traditional home and the family.

The following morning, we met and climbed into a taxi. Lek asked where my camera was. Did I not want photos? I explained that I had left where I was staying. I did not add that they were crazy if they thought I would bring such valuables on a mission to who knows where with who knows whom!

The home was on a quite soi (street) and quite modern. It was definitely not “traditional”. There were no photos or other family items and it struck me particularly odd there was no photo of the King. There was, however, a large television, DVD player and stereo.

Lek introduced me to his brother Alex and a cousin Pim who was cooking breakfast in a spartan kitchen. Alex apologized that I would not meet his mother, she had just been admitted to the hospital. I then learned Alexs wife was having a baby and Susan was also at the hospital. Lek hoped she would return soon.

After pleasantries, I was invited to the table to eat and wait for Susan. Pim prepared a special “western” meal for me. I thanked her and asked if I might share the Thai food with everyone else.

During the meal, Alex took over. He told me about his work aboard a cruise ship dealing cards in the casino, sharing anecdotes about the winnings and losses of his clients. He told me of a certain Madame Sara, daughter of a Malaysian millionaire, who had lost $30,000 the day before playing Mah Jong. The good Madame, Alex lamented, was tight with her money, and in lieu of the customary 5% tip on winnings and losses had only tipped $100US. He was not upset, adding she was coming to take him out later that day.

Alex and Lek said I was welcome in their home any time. Alex invited me to attend the Christening of his child, which I found odd given that most Thai are Buddhist. Although more red flags flew in my mind, I felt safe and was interested to see where this would lead.

After lunch, Alex invited me upstairs to his card room to see some tricks. He deftly demonstrated a number of entertaining sleights of hand. He asked if I played cards. Would I like to learn a game called “Black Jack”. After all, if he could not teach me then he must be a poor dealer.

I allowed Alex to teach me, feigning ignorance. After I learned the basics, including how to bet, he told me that any time I needed some extra cash, I could come to his casino and he would help me win. He assured me that as the dealer he had control over the game. He then taught me a few simple signals to direct me to a guaranteed win. If I had no money to play with, he could bankroll me, taking 70% of winnings. f I invested my own money, we would split it 50/50. It was as easy as that.

Alex felt that he had my confidence. He asked if I would like to play today. Madame Sara was coming soon and loved to play Black Jack. Pulling two crisp $100US notes from his pocket, Alex offered to bankroll me and I could help him earn some money to pay for his wifes hospital bill. In case I was worried, he assured me that I could even lose the $200 and we would still be friends. In an attempt to sweeten the offer, Alex told me Madame Sara was beautiful and had a penchant for foreign men.

I told Alex I was not interested. He re-assured me I would win, he would win and, had he mentioned that he donates some of the winning to charity? There was no risk. Once more, I declined. Alex continued in his attempt to lure me into a game. Emm, who had remained quietly by my side, also tried to convince me to play.

Quietly, but firmly, I explained that I had come to talk to Susan about Toronto. I had no desire to play cards … period. After more efforts failed to persuade me, Alex said he understood. He was only trying to cover hospital costs and support charity.

Now that I was not "in", Alex took me downstairs where Lek said we should return downtown. I asked if Susan were not coming, still feigning ignorance of the scam attempt. I was told she might be at the hospital a while. Nonetheless, I delayed, explaining that I would be happy to wait.

After over an hour, I could delay no longer. Lek was anxious to get me out of the house. In the taxi, Lek pulled out a 1000 Baht bill and asked if I had change. Responding that I had only 100 Baht (about $2.50US), Lek asked if he could have it to cover the highway toll. Handing over the bill, he paid the 30 Baht toll. He was about to pocket the change when I told him I needed it for the bus back to my place. Begrudgingly, Lek handed me the change.

As the taxi stopped, I asked Lek if I could visit him at the airport. He gave his surname and explained how to find him. Climbing out of the taxi, I said: "Tell Susan, if there even is a Susan, it is cold in Toronto, she should take warm clothes." Realizing he had been exposed, he smiled in true Thai fashion and wished me well.

Laughing, I could not help but appreciate the entertainment. While gem scams are plentiful in Bangkok, it appears that cons and cards are evolving into the citys lore.

Tim Morch, Copyright 2003