Thursday, April 29, 2010

Adios Aow Yai

As the sun set on my final day on Koh Phayam it seemed somehow fitting that I was eating barbecued chicken and sticky rice not with other foreigners but with Burmese friends.

The sun dipped below the horizon and the black rain clouds moved closer. The tempestuous colours on Aow Yai Beach went through several phases until dark set in.

As the sky opened up, I reflected on another good season on the island. It has been a season of change, in many different ways, but change is good.

The final issue of The Coconut Telegraph went online yesterday. Lucky #13.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Surf Photos, 2010

I am always waiting for waves. Whenever the surf is up, life goes on hold. The logic is simple: we wait for the waves; the waves do not wait for us.

The past few days, the goddess of the sea has been smiling and the waves have been up. With life on hold, I have moved to what I refer to as the ‘head office’ and have enjoyed countless hours of riding. It always brings a huge smile to my face.

The dolphins made a guest appearance the other day. They were so close I thought we might surf the same wave. The family of five was more interested in fish than waves and I rode solo.

When the day is done and the body is crying for rest, sleep is deep. There is nothing like waking before sunrise to the sound of waves crashing on the beach and the prospect of more riding. In honour of the waves, I have posted a few surf shots.

Thursday, April 1, 2010

The Coconut Telegraph, Volume 12

April Fool's Day seemed an appropriate day for a new edition. This is no joke, however, this is very real. Enjoy.

Once again, The Coconut Telegraph has the pleasure of returning to Sangkhlaburi. This time, Jay "The Man" Flesher and Bruce "Broo" Hamelin joined me for the journey. Neither had the pleasure of visiting this scenic pocket of Thailand previously and they were both excited for the adventure.

We left Koh Phayam and Jayman and I did a visa-run before getting on our way. A short minibus across the Isthmus of Kra to Chumphon and a glorious ride to Bangkok on the sleeper train. Nothing compares with a good sleep on the way to Bangkok. The minivan to Kanchanaburi crawled around the road blocks and zig-zagged through the closures in Bangkok due to the Red Shirt protests. It took 35 minutes to wend our way to the bridge over the Chao Phaya River, but as soon as we crossed the water it was clear sailing. Another minivan to Sangkhlaburi arrived at our final destination 28 hours after setting foot on the speedboat.

Jayman and Broo were instantly enthralled with the town. After unpacking, they met Daisy Dwe, Programme Director for Weaving for Women. As the newly relocated loom clicked and clacked the boys were inspired to do a little shopping. Broo ordered a special bed sheet and a custom designed duvet cover - a first for the WFW weavers and tailors. Jayman bought a large stack of goods as well and the ladies had some work ahead to fill the orders before we left town. They succeeded and we departed five days later with more in our bags then when we arrived.

We paddled to the old Sangkhlaburi Temple which was flooded when the Vajiralongkorn Dam was constructed. At low water, the temple emerges from the water and we were able to walk about some of the structures.

I tour guided the boys to all the standard stops on my orientation tour: Wat Wangwiwekaram, the Mon Temple and the border at Three Pagodas Pass. We stopped at the Sanghalei River for a snack and a cold beverage and shopped like demons in the Mon market. Broo purchased a large and impressive wood carving made from a single piece of teak. We also had the pleasure of visiting the more remote Karen village of Ban Sane Pong on the first day of a three-day festival.

When all was said and done, we were in agreement that Sangkhlaburi will remain on the list of preferred locations in Thailand.

Click to view the complete edition of Volume 12