Friday, December 3, 2010

Scenes from "The Beach"

It was kind of like a scene from "The Beach". Unfortunately, there were no mythical marijuana plantations or spectacular waterfalls, or Lord of the Flies lifestyle (Kill the Pig!), but there was a lure, a hook if you will (as fishing seems to be my new hobby and the ocean my new supermarket).

My friend Chen whispered about a place he called "Aow Yai Kim", not far from his village on the mainland. When I presented him with a chart, he was uncertain, but thought it was one of two islands between Koh Phayam and the mainland. Chen recognized the island in front of his village and showed me where his home was on the chart - so I knew he was in the zone when he pointed at a possible location. What piqued my interest was the part about big waves when the swell was up - Chen said that the fishermen speak of huge waves on the beach.

So, one morning I paddled out in search of a beach that locals from the mainland seem to revere and few from Koh Phayam know by name. Initially, I crossed to Koh Tha Wua Dam, about 17km from Aow Yai, just off the mainland. When I arrived, I discovered it was all rocky, no beach. From the chart, I thought this island was a potential surf break as there is a large rock at the end of the bay that looks like it could kick up the swell. The rock is not on the Admiralty Charts but it is definitely on my GPS. But the GPS is not "god" because according to my electronic data, I paddled across an island. Add or subtract a few hundred meters and everything is OK. On this side of the world, a few hundred meters is nothing.

Undeterred, I asked a local crab fisherman if he knew where "Aow Yai Kim" was. Without hesitation, he pointed further north to Koh Sai Dam. In the distance, I could see the white strip of sand on the beach.

As my Feathercraft glided through the surprisingly blue-green sea, I approached the beach. I could see a small longtail anchored in the shallow water and four Thai men cooking. I landed and walked over to greet them. As Thai people always do, the second thing they said was "khin khao" (literally, it means 'eat rice', but it is the Thai invitation to eat). And so, we did.

We ate fish they caught on their "boys 24-hour fishing and drinking trip" and - naturally - rice. Captain Chao showed me a 15kg barracuda they caught and we laughed as we ate together. As bad as my Thai is, we were still able to communicate without problem. "Thai style", as they say, the guys picked up their dishes, boarded the longtail, shook hands, said goodbye and were off.

I walked up and down the beach - envisaged the swell packing in between the two wee islands just a hundred meters offshore and pictured myself as the first rider on a new break. Dreams are free - and they are fantastic!

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Fishing Tales & Other Lies

So there I am, floating around Koh Kham fishing. I seem to do this more and more.
A friend of mine grew up here and as a girl, she recalls the excellent fishing at Koh Kham. One night when she and her brother were out fishing she casually dipped her toes in the water as she did on many other outings. Her brother was pulling in a fish and there was some action in the water. She watched as half a fish came into the boat and quickly pulled her foot out. They never knew if it was a barracuda or a shark.

I actually have a jack on board and there has been plenty of action. The current is moving and I am constantly readjusting position to stay close to the current without getting pushed onto the rocks. I check over my shoulder frequently to keep an eye on the swell that is rolling in.

It's interesting how one minute you are floating along tossing a line at the rocks and the next you are back-paddling with decisiveness as a big rolling wave wants to lift you up and deposit you on the rocks. It happens quickly. Compound that with a fish on the line and it can get interesting.

I reel in my line and shoulder check, when out of the corner of my eye I see motion and hear a big WHACK! As I turn, an eagle ray lands and hits the water's surface with an equally resounding WHACK! National Geographic moment, for sure.
This is also the place where I ran into nine sea otters recently. I think the family arrived not long after the tsunami and I have seen them swimming about the island over the years. Last year, I saw them in front of Hippy Bar in Buffalo Bay and counted seven. There appear to be two smaller ones this year - I assume the kids - and the adults watch my kayak closely all the while calling amongst themselves in high pitched otter-talk. I tell them: "don't worry little friend, I am not here to harm you." I am not sure if they understand Tim-talk.

This is also where I watched a fishing boat pull in a hug net full of sardines. A couple dozen crewmen bring in the net, singing as they go, and haul the catch into a large wash basin. They boil them right there on the boat.

The beauty abounds: the ocean, the jungle, the sky. Sunset the other day had a rainbow.

And to cap it all off, on Nov 16th, a pod of approximately 9 to 12 dolphins sauntered along the beach at sunset.

Wednesday, June 2, 2010

As Long as There is Water

My life is aqua-centric. I am drawn to water like a bug to light.

I recently returned from six months on Koh Phayam, an idyllic island on tropical Thailand's Andaman Coast. Countless hours in the ocean paddling a sea kayak, surfing a waveski and swimming never failed to bring a smile to my face. The ocean creeps into your system and becomes a drug. Like an addict, I need my water fix. Without the ocean or a lake or a river, I am incomplete.

When I left Koh Phayam, my first stop was Hong Kong Island. You are never far from the ocean and often find yourself riding a ferry between islands. Even the ferry to Discovery Bay on Lanta Island imparts a sense of the sea as the craft rolls past Chinese junks and sampans, private yachts, a fleet of other ferries and the inevitable morass of super tankers.

Returning to Ottawa, one of my first stops was Downie Island, in Canada's famous Thousand Islands. What a fantastic setting to call an office. The cruise ships pass regularly and pleasure craft of all shapes and sizes move about. Geese, loons, osprey and a host of other birds create a background symphony.

For the May long weekend, I visited Black Island (aka Kenny Island). The island is private and serene. The call of the loon floats eerily across the dawn as a deer slips silently to the water's edge for a drink. It is quite close to Ottawa yet seemingly so far from everything that you are transported to another world.

In the in-betweens, I have spent some glorious nights on Lac St. Antoine, watching the sun go down behind the Gatineau Hills as the colors shift and dance on the surface of the water.

In keeping with the water theme, my location for June will be Kennedy Lake. Although it is not an island, it is so remote that it may well be. Another superb office. I will watch and listen to "Maurice", the resident loon, admire the beaver and muskrat swimming below the surface of the crystal clear water, and give thanks for my good fortune.

As long as there is water, my soul is at peace.

Monday, May 24, 2010

Hong Kong

Every time I visit Hong Kong I see a little more of this incredible collision of culture, commercialism and capitalism.

A week in the mid-levels - within walking distance of the central district is sensory overload. From the hustle and bustle of the daily grind to grind and hustle of the night time bustle, Hong Kong never stops.

I followed and photographed my friend Chris Watts, CSO (Chief Stretching Officer) of Stretch Asia, as he taught group stretch sessions in the Hong Kong Country Club, The Ladies Recreational Club, Deepwater Bay Golf Club and at Action Asia's Discovery Bay event: all in the course of one week. Needless to say it was a busy week.

Nevertheless, as Hong Kong does not sleep, it becomes imperative to try at least once a visit to follow the cities lead. The night out started at "The Wanch", a live music bar in Wanchai District, to listen to Ian Taylor and his band perform. This was followed by the show at Neptune's, one of the area's many bars. Each of these, needless to say, is packed with women all seeking the company of men. So it makes for quite a show. For someone with deep pockets it can be a dangerous place. For someone like myself with empty pockets it becomes a source of great entertainment.

An evening in Mong Kok, deep in the Chinese community, provides a glimpse into another world. The Ladies' Market covers several streets and is filled with every type of knockoff item one can imagine. The place is jam packed with people shopping and all that glitters shines bright in the sea of neon lights making this a "must do" experience.

Daytime shopping around Tsim Sha Tsui for electronics, sunglasses, photo gear and more knockoffs is fun, but be very wary when purchasing. All sales are final and most sales are phony.

Of course, no visit is complete without a walk through the park to check out the lemurs on the way to Pacific Place - or Specific Place as the kids call it.

All in all, Hong Kong is one of the few cities in the world that I like and I always look forward to the next visit.

Sunday, May 2, 2010

Bangkok Barren

The tension in the air is as palatable as the humidity hanging from dark clouds that are symbolic of the political situation here in Thailand.

The few foreigners in the Sukhumvit area of Bangkok are only slightly outnumbered by Thai people. All civilians are outnumbered by police. The police are far outnumbered by military. Sukhumvit Road, a principle tourist area, is lined with police and military.

The red shirts - United Front for Democracy Against Dictatorship (UDD) - have been protesting for weeks now and there have been several violent clashes and a number of lives lost. Recently, the red shirts stormed Chulalongkorn Hospital, one of the city's main hospitals, causing serious concern in an already explosive situation.

The UDD has closed down the Silom district with a tremendous impact on the businesses in this the central business district. Last week, RPG's fired by UDD supporters hit the Sala Daeng BTS Sky train station, closing the service for over a day. Since that incident, protesters have hunkered down for a prolonged demonstration.

Traffic in the 'City of Eternal Traffic Jams' is worse than ever. Most taxi drivers will only take fares that go away from protest areas. Motorcycle taxis are the only way to get about. My short trip along Petchaburi Road to Panthip Plaza was largely uneventful, but only because my driver skillfully weaved through the throngs of motionless autos. Most of the streets connecting to Sukhumvit, just over the khlong (canal), were blocked by protesters. Barricades made of car tires, razor wire and bamboo were backed by protesters. The city appeared to be ground to a halt, yet, in that mysterious Thai way, somehow functioning.

On the street just outside my hotel, there were several dozen military with riot shield, full riot gear, automatic weapons and other support. Only in Thailand will you find the military smiling and saying hello to people, allowing photographs and even posing with children. In any other country they would ignore all civilians. Yet this is part of the unique and enchanting aspect of Thai culture. They are resilient and somehow manage to maintain a sense of humor even in the most challenging situations.

I thought about that as my taxi entered the tollway to the airport. The tollway was empty and my taxi driver pointed the car down the fast lane at 140km per hour. As we neared the airport, traffic slowed to a crawl. Police and military reduced traffic flow to two lanes and were clearly checking to make sure that there was no repeat of last year's protests that closed Suvarnbumi Airport.

The airport was empty. Airport staff were talking about the red shirts - clearly they did not like what was happening. Thai airways has reportedly canceled 15% of its regular scheduled flights and there is an eerie quiet to one of the largest airports in Southeast Asia.

I fear for the immediate future as there appears to be no way out of the current situation without something breaking. But then I remember that this is Thailand, a country with a history of coups and political turmoil and the unerring ability to forge forward regardless.

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Adios Aow Yai

As the sun set on my final day on Koh Phayam it seemed somehow fitting that I was eating barbecued chicken and sticky rice not with other foreigners but with Burmese friends.

The sun dipped below the horizon and the black rain clouds moved closer. The tempestuous colours on Aow Yai Beach went through several phases until dark set in.

As the sky opened up, I reflected on another good season on the island. It has been a season of change, in many different ways, but change is good.

The final issue of The Coconut Telegraph went online yesterday. Lucky #13.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Surf Photos, 2010

I am always waiting for waves. Whenever the surf is up, life goes on hold. The logic is simple: we wait for the waves; the waves do not wait for us.

The past few days, the goddess of the sea has been smiling and the waves have been up. With life on hold, I have moved to what I refer to as the ‘head office’ and have enjoyed countless hours of riding. It always brings a huge smile to my face.

The dolphins made a guest appearance the other day. They were so close I thought we might surf the same wave. The family of five was more interested in fish than waves and I rode solo.

When the day is done and the body is crying for rest, sleep is deep. There is nothing like waking before sunrise to the sound of waves crashing on the beach and the prospect of more riding. In honour of the waves, I have posted a few surf shots.

Thursday, April 1, 2010

The Coconut Telegraph, Volume 12

April Fool's Day seemed an appropriate day for a new edition. This is no joke, however, this is very real. Enjoy.

Once again, The Coconut Telegraph has the pleasure of returning to Sangkhlaburi. This time, Jay "The Man" Flesher and Bruce "Broo" Hamelin joined me for the journey. Neither had the pleasure of visiting this scenic pocket of Thailand previously and they were both excited for the adventure.

We left Koh Phayam and Jayman and I did a visa-run before getting on our way. A short minibus across the Isthmus of Kra to Chumphon and a glorious ride to Bangkok on the sleeper train. Nothing compares with a good sleep on the way to Bangkok. The minivan to Kanchanaburi crawled around the road blocks and zig-zagged through the closures in Bangkok due to the Red Shirt protests. It took 35 minutes to wend our way to the bridge over the Chao Phaya River, but as soon as we crossed the water it was clear sailing. Another minivan to Sangkhlaburi arrived at our final destination 28 hours after setting foot on the speedboat.

Jayman and Broo were instantly enthralled with the town. After unpacking, they met Daisy Dwe, Programme Director for Weaving for Women. As the newly relocated loom clicked and clacked the boys were inspired to do a little shopping. Broo ordered a special bed sheet and a custom designed duvet cover - a first for the WFW weavers and tailors. Jayman bought a large stack of goods as well and the ladies had some work ahead to fill the orders before we left town. They succeeded and we departed five days later with more in our bags then when we arrived.

We paddled to the old Sangkhlaburi Temple which was flooded when the Vajiralongkorn Dam was constructed. At low water, the temple emerges from the water and we were able to walk about some of the structures.

I tour guided the boys to all the standard stops on my orientation tour: Wat Wangwiwekaram, the Mon Temple and the border at Three Pagodas Pass. We stopped at the Sanghalei River for a snack and a cold beverage and shopped like demons in the Mon market. Broo purchased a large and impressive wood carving made from a single piece of teak. We also had the pleasure of visiting the more remote Karen village of Ban Sane Pong on the first day of a three-day festival.

When all was said and done, we were in agreement that Sangkhlaburi will remain on the list of preferred locations in Thailand.

Click to view the complete edition of Volume 12

Sunday, March 28, 2010

The Coconut Telegraph, Volume 11

The more things change the more they stay the same. This is one of those axioms that is oft repeated but not as frequently appreciated. I see the change happening on the island and as much as I like to recall "the good old days", I must also accept that in the grand scheme of things nothing has really changed. There is simply more of it. Koh Phayam remains a paradise.

People come and people go - this is a recurring theme when you live in a travelers' paradise for a longer period of time. After all, not everybody has months on end to be a bum, relax, play some sport and live life. How fortunate.

The Cashew Nut Festival came and went with the usual shenanigans. If you have never been to a Cashew Nut Festival you should experience one. That way you will know exactly what every other one was like and what future festivals will be. The events managed to be cobbled together without too many hiccups and the bars and restaurants lining the street were biggest success stories. Football was the sport highlight, with the Koh Chang team winning the tournament and then turning around and donating the prize money to the temple here on the island. There was a volleyball tourney and a half-assed attempt at kayak racing. Naturally, the parties on both nights were the highlights for most of the attendees.

There continue to be a lot of motorcycle crashes. Some incidents involve our old friend "alchohol", some excess speed, most a combination of both. The result, however, is usually the same - lots of bandages, a daily visit to the clinic and a repair bill.

"The Canadians" returned en masse from various locations around the globe and had a blast. They truly demonstrated what it means to have fun. Their antics were witnessed from Aow Yai Beach to the village and even as far as Buffalo Bay. Truth be told, the people on the Burma side are still recovering from their overnighter to Victoria Point to drink Burma draft.

There seems to be a flurry of building on the road from Smile Hut and along. Massage Oiy is building a new shop opposite Porn. She will offer a variety of coffee, fresh baked products, wifi and more. It will be a nice wifi zone with a comfortable atmosphere.

Spring is in the air. Enjoy.

If you liked "A Better Burnout", check out the video version.

Click to read the complete edition of Volume 11.

Friday, March 26, 2010

Return to Blogging

It has been quite a while since I last posted on my blog. Frankly, I am not up to speed on most of this stuff and let my account lag. I have fallen into the same black hole that other vagrant bloggers on blogspot like myself have discovered: it seems there is no way to recover old passwords from the old blogspot and reactivate the account. So, I have created a new account under the Google empire and will start afresh.

If you care, check out the old blog.

I will endeavour to be more current and more frequent with my posts.