As with every good thing, there is always an end. Having said that, an end need not necessarily be final. An end can be like a period at the end of a sentence. There is always another sentence to follow. And so an end to the season's chapter in SE Asia and the beginning of another summer in Canada.
The journey homeward is always a bit of an adventure. The mandatory stop in Bangkok includes a visit to the nice people at Nikon, a meal at one of my favourite restaurants near Lumpini Park and a night on the town. My friend Dave - a surfer I met in Sumatra - was in town, so I showed him a few highlights and we shared some laughs. I visited the nice folks at Cosmos Composite to check out a variety of carbon fiber products. From high-end carbon fiber business cards to water skis, surf boards, kayak helmets and more, Laurent and his team make a variety of super lightweight products. We are working out the details of a new carbon fiber wave ski for me to test next season.
As seems to be part of an established pattern, I visited Chris Watts in Hong Kong for ten action-packed days. Chris was finishing his second book and was shooting the video that will accompany the online book "The Beauty of Posture". I photographed this session to include some stills in the book and we spent another evening shooting with a model.
It is a long flight from Hong Kong to Toronto, but it is direct. Arriving in Toronto with three massive bags and two smaller bags got me to that 'special' line at Canada Customs. You never know what they are going to do when they haul you off to the side. No harm, no foul, as they say, just another customs officer who cannot understand why my passport is so full of stamps.
The shock of the cooler climate reminds me of the words of an older Swiss man I met in the Annapurna's: 'there is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothes." Although I have all the gear to keep warm, I prefer fewer clothes and warmer weather any day!
Back in Ottawa, the rain falls with a vengeance. It seems that rain has been the predominant weather hitting many parts of Canada this spring, with flooding occurring across the nation. After a record breaking spring for rain I think everybody is keen to see summer suns shining and torrid temperatures.
Rain or shine, my Harley is my only transport and, as usual, she fired up ready to roll for another summer.
And then "bam!" Back to work, pay off some of the debts and try to put a small cushion in the bank for the next adventure. At the rate time seems to be whizzing past, the next adventure will upon me before I realize the summer has come and gone.
Enjoy the spring.
Here's to a summer filled with hot days and wild nights!
To view the complete edition of The Coconut Telegraph click here.
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
The Coconut Telegraph Issue 20
Anyone who stays on Koh Phayam for a length of time knows just how cyclical the island is. From mid-October until mid-December, there are few foreigners, the vibe is mellow and there are plenty of opportunities to get to know the local people, rekindle relationships and enjoy some quiet time in their company. This time of the year is a particular favourite of mine.
The switch gets flipped somewhere around December 20th when the holiday-makers arrive in droves. Gone is the backpack toting, wannabe hippy crowd - welcome to the suitcase with wheels world. Space is tight, rates are raised as everyone wants those elusive Euros and dollars. People are too busy to remember to breath and everyone starts the whine that they are working too hard.
Things level out somewhat in March and the downturn in arrivals is gradual. This season, the weather was very unusual and March saw a lot of rain. It damaged the cashew crop and the psyche of tourists, who left in flocks. The island was deserted and it seemed as though that peaceful "end of season" period was upon us. Then, along comes Songkran - Thai New Year - and along come the expats on holiday, along come the Thais and along comes the water. Songkran is always a special time of year in small communities like Koh Phayam. Here, the flavour is participation not aggravation. Sure, you might find some cold water, or colored powder, but that comes from someone you know - someone to whom you can return the favour.
My last days on Koh Phayam delivered fantastic surf! Check out the Beach Report for a full breakdown. To view surf photos, click here.
As happens every year, I visited my Weaving for Women friends in Sangkhlaburi, near the Three Pagodas Pass Burmese border crossing. It has been a tough year for them as tourism was especially low this year following the October clashes on the border, poor weather, a dismal world economy and so on. Nonetheless, I am continually impressed by their endurance, survival skills and above all continued ability to smile in the midst of all these trials and tribulations. The town continues to change with each passing day.
Check out the full edition of The Coconut Telegraph. Click here.
And so, it is time to pack up, carry on and return to try and find some elusive dollars for the next adventure.
The switch gets flipped somewhere around December 20th when the holiday-makers arrive in droves. Gone is the backpack toting, wannabe hippy crowd - welcome to the suitcase with wheels world. Space is tight, rates are raised as everyone wants those elusive Euros and dollars. People are too busy to remember to breath and everyone starts the whine that they are working too hard.
Things level out somewhat in March and the downturn in arrivals is gradual. This season, the weather was very unusual and March saw a lot of rain. It damaged the cashew crop and the psyche of tourists, who left in flocks. The island was deserted and it seemed as though that peaceful "end of season" period was upon us. Then, along comes Songkran - Thai New Year - and along come the expats on holiday, along come the Thais and along comes the water. Songkran is always a special time of year in small communities like Koh Phayam. Here, the flavour is participation not aggravation. Sure, you might find some cold water, or colored powder, but that comes from someone you know - someone to whom you can return the favour.
My last days on Koh Phayam delivered fantastic surf! Check out the Beach Report for a full breakdown. To view surf photos, click here.
As happens every year, I visited my Weaving for Women friends in Sangkhlaburi, near the Three Pagodas Pass Burmese border crossing. It has been a tough year for them as tourism was especially low this year following the October clashes on the border, poor weather, a dismal world economy and so on. Nonetheless, I am continually impressed by their endurance, survival skills and above all continued ability to smile in the midst of all these trials and tribulations. The town continues to change with each passing day.
Check out the full edition of The Coconut Telegraph. Click here.
And so, it is time to pack up, carry on and return to try and find some elusive dollars for the next adventure.
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Surf Koh Phayam
It's one of those things we never look forward to, yet something we shall never evade. It's called change. It comes in many forms, wags as many tails as it tells tales and rarely delivers the goods.
But sometimes, change is good. And here is one example that I have had the pleasure to watch evolve. Surf Koh Phayam, located at South Star Surf Bar, is a welcome addition to the island scene. Surfing is healthy and fun - without even mentioning the "zen" thing, simple pleasures or gravity sport adrenaline.
As I watch the number of riders in the water grow from one to six in as many years, I do not fear crowds. There are plenty of other convenient places to ride - but there will not likely be as many places as friendly.
Drop in on me - no problem - I might grab hold of your board and shake it if I know you. Otherwise, I will turn away and look for the next ride. It's always 'the next ride'. Analogies could be made - but there shall be none.
This also brings potential for the off-season, when we have all forgotten our so-called "friends" on the island and lie basking in the western sun and western earnings while they are pounded by rain, wind and WAVES. Yes, I did say WAVES. The off-season is wave season. More surfers from May to October means more opportunity for the surf gurus as well as the island. And with the surf scene growing, maybe this change will be one for the better.
GoPro HD Surf HERO Camera
But sometimes, change is good. And here is one example that I have had the pleasure to watch evolve. Surf Koh Phayam, located at South Star Surf Bar, is a welcome addition to the island scene. Surfing is healthy and fun - without even mentioning the "zen" thing, simple pleasures or gravity sport adrenaline.
As I watch the number of riders in the water grow from one to six in as many years, I do not fear crowds. There are plenty of other convenient places to ride - but there will not likely be as many places as friendly.
Drop in on me - no problem - I might grab hold of your board and shake it if I know you. Otherwise, I will turn away and look for the next ride. It's always 'the next ride'. Analogies could be made - but there shall be none.
This also brings potential for the off-season, when we have all forgotten our so-called "friends" on the island and lie basking in the western sun and western earnings while they are pounded by rain, wind and WAVES. Yes, I did say WAVES. The off-season is wave season. More surfers from May to October means more opportunity for the surf gurus as well as the island. And with the surf scene growing, maybe this change will be one for the better.
GoPro HD Surf HERO Camera
Thursday, March 10, 2011
From Swell to Hell
From the beach, the waves looked perfect. In the early morning, the conditions were glassy and a slight offshore breeze created that classic mist blowing off the top of the breaking waves. Each wave appeared to set up in a regular cycle, peeling off to the right and inviting us into the ocean.
But looks can be deceiving. If you have never surfed a reef break before, it can be daunting. Paddling out, the waves appear larger than from the shore. And the sight of the reef a mere meter or two below is a sobering reminder of the potential danger. The first time you paddle into a wave, you cannot help but notice that the water covering the reef is sucked away as the wave stands up. The coral heads suddenly become a half meter or less below. Everything starts to happen quickly and one false move will dump you. If you are lucky, you can lie flat in the soup. If you get pushed down, there is the inevitable reef rash.
The difference between a surf board and a waveski is that a surfer can kick the board away and lie flat but the waveski rider is strapped on. This means that your head is now that lowest point and occasionally uncomfortably close to the coral. You learn to get upright fast or pop the escape on the buckle and get flat on the surface. But these are the risks you take when you ride the reef swell.
More dangerous in West Lampung is getting to and from the reef. The common method is to ride a motorcycle with a rack mounted on the left side to carry your board. The roads are barely wide enough for two cars to pass, so caution (hati-hati - slowly-slowly) is the motto. They are always littered with an assortment of cows, goats, sheep, dogs, carts, rice sacks, people, cars, trucks, motorcycles and more. Add a liberal dose of potholes or toss in a narrow bridge and driving can be a hellish nightmare.
The road often resembles a gathering place more than a transportation zone. People stand on the road smoking cigarettes and talking. It is not uncommon to see several motorcycles parked on the road and a group of people sitting on the road chatting. The horn is your friend - you must beep to pass everything and the more frantic the beeping the greater haste made to move. Of course the trump card is the air horn from a big truck - everything scatters.
But the number one danger on the road is the teenage kids. They ride like fools two, three or four motorcycles together, racing, weaving back and forth, slowing down, speeding up and paying little attention to the horn system.
When a foreigner (boo-lay) passes they try to reach over and pat your shoulder. Not entirely smart on any given day, but add that surf board and rack to the left side and things get uncomfortably close. In a worst case scenario, the bike can hook the board and the kids can go flying across the road.
I know - I have witnessed this up close and personally.
So, in the world of calculated risks, the reef and the swell are far better than the road and its hell. Hati-Hati.
To read more about the Sumatra Surf Trip. please visit:
http://timmorch.com/Coconut Telegraph/Volume 18/coconut_telegraphV18.htm
But looks can be deceiving. If you have never surfed a reef break before, it can be daunting. Paddling out, the waves appear larger than from the shore. And the sight of the reef a mere meter or two below is a sobering reminder of the potential danger. The first time you paddle into a wave, you cannot help but notice that the water covering the reef is sucked away as the wave stands up. The coral heads suddenly become a half meter or less below. Everything starts to happen quickly and one false move will dump you. If you are lucky, you can lie flat in the soup. If you get pushed down, there is the inevitable reef rash.
The difference between a surf board and a waveski is that a surfer can kick the board away and lie flat but the waveski rider is strapped on. This means that your head is now that lowest point and occasionally uncomfortably close to the coral. You learn to get upright fast or pop the escape on the buckle and get flat on the surface. But these are the risks you take when you ride the reef swell.
More dangerous in West Lampung is getting to and from the reef. The common method is to ride a motorcycle with a rack mounted on the left side to carry your board. The roads are barely wide enough for two cars to pass, so caution (hati-hati - slowly-slowly) is the motto. They are always littered with an assortment of cows, goats, sheep, dogs, carts, rice sacks, people, cars, trucks, motorcycles and more. Add a liberal dose of potholes or toss in a narrow bridge and driving can be a hellish nightmare.
The road often resembles a gathering place more than a transportation zone. People stand on the road smoking cigarettes and talking. It is not uncommon to see several motorcycles parked on the road and a group of people sitting on the road chatting. The horn is your friend - you must beep to pass everything and the more frantic the beeping the greater haste made to move. Of course the trump card is the air horn from a big truck - everything scatters.
But the number one danger on the road is the teenage kids. They ride like fools two, three or four motorcycles together, racing, weaving back and forth, slowing down, speeding up and paying little attention to the horn system.
When a foreigner (boo-lay) passes they try to reach over and pat your shoulder. Not entirely smart on any given day, but add that surf board and rack to the left side and things get uncomfortably close. In a worst case scenario, the bike can hook the board and the kids can go flying across the road.
I know - I have witnessed this up close and personally.
So, in the world of calculated risks, the reef and the swell are far better than the road and its hell. Hati-Hati.
To read more about the Sumatra Surf Trip. please visit:
http://timmorch.com/Coconut Telegraph/Volume 18/coconut_telegraphV18.htm
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