From the beach, the waves looked perfect. In the early morning, the conditions were glassy and a slight offshore breeze created that classic mist blowing off the top of the breaking waves. Each wave appeared to set up in a regular cycle, peeling off to the right and inviting us into the ocean.
But looks can be deceiving. If you have never surfed a reef break before, it can be daunting. Paddling out, the waves appear larger than from the shore. And the sight of the reef a mere meter or two below is a sobering reminder of the potential danger. The first time you paddle into a wave, you cannot help but notice that the water covering the reef is sucked away as the wave stands up. The coral heads suddenly become a half meter or less below. Everything starts to happen quickly and one false move will dump you. If you are lucky, you can lie flat in the soup. If you get pushed down, there is the inevitable reef rash.
The difference between a surf board and a waveski is that a surfer can kick the board away and lie flat but the waveski rider is strapped on. This means that your head is now that lowest point and occasionally uncomfortably close to the coral. You learn to get upright fast or pop the escape on the buckle and get flat on the surface. But these are the risks you take when you ride the reef swell.
More dangerous in West Lampung is getting to and from the reef. The common method is to ride a motorcycle with a rack mounted on the left side to carry your board. The roads are barely wide enough for two cars to pass, so caution (hati-hati - slowly-slowly) is the motto. They are always littered with an assortment of cows, goats, sheep, dogs, carts, rice sacks, people, cars, trucks, motorcycles and more. Add a liberal dose of potholes or toss in a narrow bridge and driving can be a hellish nightmare.
The road often resembles a gathering place more than a transportation zone. People stand on the road smoking cigarettes and talking. It is not uncommon to see several motorcycles parked on the road and a group of people sitting on the road chatting. The horn is your friend - you must beep to pass everything and the more frantic the beeping the greater haste made to move. Of course the trump card is the air horn from a big truck - everything scatters.
But the number one danger on the road is the teenage kids. They ride like fools two, three or four motorcycles together, racing, weaving back and forth, slowing down, speeding up and paying little attention to the horn system.
When a foreigner (boo-lay) passes they try to reach over and pat your shoulder. Not entirely smart on any given day, but add that surf board and rack to the left side and things get uncomfortably close. In a worst case scenario, the bike can hook the board and the kids can go flying across the road.
I know - I have witnessed this up close and personally.
So, in the world of calculated risks, the reef and the swell are far better than the road and its hell. Hati-Hati.
To read more about the Sumatra Surf Trip. please visit:
http://timmorch.com/Coconut Telegraph/Volume 18/coconut_telegraphV18.htm
