Central Bali

Narrow winding roads climb and descend the steep volcanic valleys of central Bali. Villages, perched on ridges, come to life early. People make their way to the fields closely inspecting each one. Irrigation streams are carefully cleared of debris that collected overnight. The grass on the barriers between terraces is cut by hand and collected in baskets to feed the animals. Each plant is examined and vegetables are harvested when they are ripe. Baskets of red chilli peppers and tomatoes line the fields waiting to be transported to market. The green fields and blue skies deepen in colour as the sun climbs. Sporadic red and yellow hues complete the spectrum, creating lovely scenes. A mountain most always graces the background, slowly gathering clouds as the ocean winds rise and cool. Small children cry “hello” enthusiastically as they walk to school and adults rarely fail to smile and return a “hello” as I pass.

Ascending Mount Bratan I arrive at the first of three freshwater lakes that lie in nearby volcanic craters. Lake Bratan is the larger and it is possible to rent a boat and motor or sail about the lake. A market sells fruits and vegetables as well as art and knick-knacks. A popular stop for tour groups, the local people have learned from their southern compatriots. “Hello Boss,” is the common greeting, followed by “you buy here I give you special price.” The sales pitch is less intense and a simple “no thank you” usually concludes the efforts.

Lakes Buyan and Tamblingan are often bypassed by tour groups. The absence of foreigners means that traditional life dominates and people accept my presence with a smile or a wave. At the west end of Lake Buyan a nature preserve offers several kilometers of walking trails that lead to the hillside and the forest. It is possible to walk over the ridge and reach nearby Lake Tamblingan.

My destination for the day is the village of Munduk. The road to Munduk runs the north ridge above the two lakes which yields impressive views. Coffee and cloves are the main crops in this steep terrain. The white flowers of the coffee plants are in full bloom and the aroma of cloves drying by the roadside is intoxicating. I stray from the road and wander onto narrow paths that weave along the ridges. Distances are short as the crow flies, long as the road winds.

Occasionally, I stop and sit with people, unable to communicate other offering a smiling and a “hello”. They are always friendly and return the smile with an easy manner that makes me feel welcome. If I ask for directions by naming my destination – Munduk - a gentle wave of the hand indicates the way and I continue on my unhurried journey.

Villages in this area are simple clusters of homes with an occasional shop. Descending the twisting track, I find myself entering the village of Giseng, not far from Munduk. Giseng has a large holy tree where a temple is currently under construction at the base of this behemoth. I count no less than 78 paces to walk around the base and start to appreciate why the local residents consider it sacred. Afterwards, I note the “Giseng Big Tree” is visible from almost every vantage point in the valley.

In Munduk, I check out the half-dozen or so guesthouses located along the ridge. Each has views of the valley and mountains beyond, although one stands out for its superior location. Puri Alam is run by Ketut and her husband. The large rooms are airy and clean with a wide balcony that drinks in the scenery. The shower is also open and even the toilet looks through the shower to the peaks beyond. Perched on the top is the restaurant. From this vantage point the panorama is fantastic. I can see the same white building at the top of the mountain where I deviated from the main road and the “Giseng Big Tree”. While rice terraces cascade down the center of the valley below, orderly plantations climb the hillsides framed by the peaks of Mounts Batukao, Sangiyang and Lesong.

Ketut is friendly and welcoming. She is eager to have a guest as business has been terribly slow, so she truly does make a special price. Her attentiveness creates a warm ambience and the food is fabulous. I tell her feel I have found another piece of the true Bali and she beams with a smile that fills the room. With such a wonderful combination, I decide to make Puri Alam my base for a few nights.

Tim Morch, Copyright 2006