For Good Luck Boss

“Hello Boss, taxi?”

These were the first words I heard exiting customs at Bali’s Ngurah Rai Airport. This, followed by “Hello Boss, hotel?” would be repeated every three steps until I left the airport.

The tropical island of Bali, Indonesia has been rocked by not one but two terrorist bomb attacks in the past four years. The first exploded in a popular nightclub district in Kuta Beach on October 12, 2002, where a monument now stands at “Ground Zero”. This had a dramatic impact on tourism and led the international community to recognize that global terrorism is very real. Tourism all but ceased as Bali tried to rebuild both its infrastructure and reputation. International arrivals gradually returned to the island until the second attack in 2005. This all but stopped tourism.

Today, arrivals are down – way down. Tourism, the mainstay of the Kuta economy is at unprecedented lows. The effect on everyday life is obvious. It is not possible to walk ten meters without hearing “Hello Boss, shopping?” or “Hello Boss, transport?”

The sales pitch is always gentle. “Please come look Boss. Looking for free, Boss. Today I have no sale. If you buy it will bring good luck.” Who receives good luck is difficult to say, but a polite “No thank you” is always returned with a smile accompanied by “Welcome to Bali, Boss.”

Peter is a local painter I met while sipping morning coffee on my hotel porch. He used to sell Bali landscapes from a single location. Now he walks from hotel to hotel quietly talking to anyone who will listen. He tells me he has not made a sale in nearly four months and offers his colourful work for any price I will offer.

“It is not important the price,” he tells me, “I need to feed my family. I have a wife and three children.”

Kuta Beach is quiet. The once crowded surf break of Legian has a lineup of less than a dozen surfers. Tony earns his living renting surfboards. He, like scores of others along the beach, stands beside a dozen or more boards. The prices he asks are high compared with the rental shops one block off the street but he will bargain. While Tony lowers his price every few minutes, his friend eagerly displays a book of temporary henna tattoos.

“Tattoo, Boss? Only temporary - for your stay in Bali. I give you good price.”

Further along, Leena approaches. “Hello Boss, manicure?” she asks. Young and pretty, Leena gently holds my hand assuring me a good price. She glances at my gnarled toes and suggests a pedicure as well.

Meanwhile, Leena is joined by Kiki and Made. Kiki is selling trinkets while Made asks if I would like a massage. We sit on the beach and watch the sun sink into the ocean as they tell me how there are no tourists. Canadians and Americans are rare. Australians continue to be the mainstay and Europeans arrive in small numbers.

The girls are not upset at having made no sale. Optimists, they tell me that when I am ready for their services to remember them by name. They each ask me to repeat their name is so I will not forget, wish me a good night and quietly head home.

As I leave the beach, I spot Tony packing up his surfboards. He smiles and says “Hello Boss. Tomorrow you rent from me okay? For good luck Boss.”

Copyright Tim Morch, 2006