Every time I visit Hong Kong I see a little more of this incredible collision of culture, commercialism and capitalism.
A week in the mid-levels - within walking distance of the central district is sensory overload. From the hustle and bustle of the daily grind to grind and hustle of the night time bustle, Hong Kong never stops.
I followed and photographed my friend Chris Watts, CSO (Chief Stretching Officer) of Stretch Asia, as he taught group stretch sessions in the Hong Kong Country Club, The Ladies Recreational Club, Deepwater Bay Golf Club and at Action Asia's Discovery Bay event: all in the course of one week. Needless to say it was a busy week.
Nevertheless, as Hong Kong does not sleep, it becomes imperative to try at least once a visit to follow the cities lead. The night out started at "The Wanch", a live music bar in Wanchai District, to listen to Ian Taylor and his band perform. This was followed by the show at Neptune's, one of the area's many bars. Each of these, needless to say, is packed with women all seeking the company of men. So it makes for quite a show. For someone with deep pockets it can be a dangerous place. For someone like myself with empty pockets it becomes a source of great entertainment.
An evening in Mong Kok, deep in the Chinese community, provides a glimpse into another world. The Ladies' Market covers several streets and is filled with every type of knockoff item one can imagine. The place is jam packed with people shopping and all that glitters shines bright in the sea of neon lights making this a "must do" experience.
Daytime shopping around Tsim Sha Tsui for electronics, sunglasses, photo gear and more knockoffs is fun, but be very wary when purchasing. All sales are final and most sales are phony.
Of course, no visit is complete without a walk through the park to check out the lemurs on the way to Pacific Place - or Specific Place as the kids call it.
All in all, Hong Kong is one of the few cities in the world that I like and I always look forward to the next visit.
Monday, May 24, 2010
Sunday, May 2, 2010
Bangkok Barren
The tension in the air is as palatable as the humidity hanging from dark clouds that are symbolic of the political situation here in Thailand.
The few foreigners in the Sukhumvit area of Bangkok are only slightly outnumbered by Thai people. All civilians are outnumbered by police. The police are far outnumbered by military. Sukhumvit Road, a principle tourist area, is lined with police and military.
The red shirts - United Front for Democracy Against Dictatorship (UDD) - have been protesting for weeks now and there have been several violent clashes and a number of lives lost. Recently, the red shirts stormed Chulalongkorn Hospital, one of the city's main hospitals, causing serious concern in an already explosive situation.
The UDD has closed down the Silom district with a tremendous impact on the businesses in this the central business district. Last week, RPG's fired by UDD supporters hit the Sala Daeng BTS Sky train station, closing the service for over a day. Since that incident, protesters have hunkered down for a prolonged demonstration.
Traffic in the 'City of Eternal Traffic Jams' is worse than ever. Most taxi drivers will only take fares that go away from protest areas. Motorcycle taxis are the only way to get about. My short trip along Petchaburi Road to Panthip Plaza was largely uneventful, but only because my driver skillfully weaved through the throngs of motionless autos. Most of the streets connecting to Sukhumvit, just over the khlong (canal), were blocked by protesters. Barricades made of car tires, razor wire and bamboo were backed by protesters. The city appeared to be ground to a halt, yet, in that mysterious Thai way, somehow functioning.
On the street just outside my hotel, there were several dozen military with riot shield, full riot gear, automatic weapons and other support. Only in Thailand will you find the military smiling and saying hello to people, allowing photographs and even posing with children. In any other country they would ignore all civilians. Yet this is part of the unique and enchanting aspect of Thai culture. They are resilient and somehow manage to maintain a sense of humor even in the most challenging situations.
I thought about that as my taxi entered the tollway to the airport. The tollway was empty and my taxi driver pointed the car down the fast lane at 140km per hour. As we neared the airport, traffic slowed to a crawl. Police and military reduced traffic flow to two lanes and were clearly checking to make sure that there was no repeat of last year's protests that closed Suvarnbumi Airport.
The airport was empty. Airport staff were talking about the red shirts - clearly they did not like what was happening. Thai airways has reportedly canceled 15% of its regular scheduled flights and there is an eerie quiet to one of the largest airports in Southeast Asia.
I fear for the immediate future as there appears to be no way out of the current situation without something breaking. But then I remember that this is Thailand, a country with a history of coups and political turmoil and the unerring ability to forge forward regardless.
The few foreigners in the Sukhumvit area of Bangkok are only slightly outnumbered by Thai people. All civilians are outnumbered by police. The police are far outnumbered by military. Sukhumvit Road, a principle tourist area, is lined with police and military.
The red shirts - United Front for Democracy Against Dictatorship (UDD) - have been protesting for weeks now and there have been several violent clashes and a number of lives lost. Recently, the red shirts stormed Chulalongkorn Hospital, one of the city's main hospitals, causing serious concern in an already explosive situation.
The UDD has closed down the Silom district with a tremendous impact on the businesses in this the central business district. Last week, RPG's fired by UDD supporters hit the Sala Daeng BTS Sky train station, closing the service for over a day. Since that incident, protesters have hunkered down for a prolonged demonstration.
Traffic in the 'City of Eternal Traffic Jams' is worse than ever. Most taxi drivers will only take fares that go away from protest areas. Motorcycle taxis are the only way to get about. My short trip along Petchaburi Road to Panthip Plaza was largely uneventful, but only because my driver skillfully weaved through the throngs of motionless autos. Most of the streets connecting to Sukhumvit, just over the khlong (canal), were blocked by protesters. Barricades made of car tires, razor wire and bamboo were backed by protesters. The city appeared to be ground to a halt, yet, in that mysterious Thai way, somehow functioning.
On the street just outside my hotel, there were several dozen military with riot shield, full riot gear, automatic weapons and other support. Only in Thailand will you find the military smiling and saying hello to people, allowing photographs and even posing with children. In any other country they would ignore all civilians. Yet this is part of the unique and enchanting aspect of Thai culture. They are resilient and somehow manage to maintain a sense of humor even in the most challenging situations.
I thought about that as my taxi entered the tollway to the airport. The tollway was empty and my taxi driver pointed the car down the fast lane at 140km per hour. As we neared the airport, traffic slowed to a crawl. Police and military reduced traffic flow to two lanes and were clearly checking to make sure that there was no repeat of last year's protests that closed Suvarnbumi Airport.
The airport was empty. Airport staff were talking about the red shirts - clearly they did not like what was happening. Thai airways has reportedly canceled 15% of its regular scheduled flights and there is an eerie quiet to one of the largest airports in Southeast Asia.
I fear for the immediate future as there appears to be no way out of the current situation without something breaking. But then I remember that this is Thailand, a country with a history of coups and political turmoil and the unerring ability to forge forward regardless.
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Adios Aow Yai
As the sun set on my final day on Koh Phayam it seemed somehow fitting that I was eating barbecued chicken and sticky rice not with other foreigners but with Burmese friends.
The sun dipped below the horizon and the black rain clouds moved closer. The tempestuous colours on Aow Yai Beach went through several phases until dark set in.
As the sky opened up, I reflected on another good season on the island. It has been a season of change, in many different ways, but change is good.
The final issue of The Coconut Telegraph went online yesterday. Lucky #13.
The sun dipped below the horizon and the black rain clouds moved closer. The tempestuous colours on Aow Yai Beach went through several phases until dark set in.
As the sky opened up, I reflected on another good season on the island. It has been a season of change, in many different ways, but change is good.
The final issue of The Coconut Telegraph went online yesterday. Lucky #13.
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Surf Photos, 2010
I am always waiting for waves. Whenever the surf is up, life goes on hold. The logic is simple: we wait for the waves; the waves do not wait for us.
The past few days, the goddess of the sea has been smiling and the waves have been up. With life on hold, I have moved to what I refer to as the ‘head office’ and have enjoyed countless hours of riding. It always brings a huge smile to my face.
The dolphins made a guest appearance the other day. They were so close I thought we might surf the same wave. The family of five was more interested in fish than waves and I rode solo.
When the day is done and the body is crying for rest, sleep is deep. There is nothing like waking before sunrise to the sound of waves crashing on the beach and the prospect of more riding. In honour of the waves, I have posted a few surf shots.
The past few days, the goddess of the sea has been smiling and the waves have been up. With life on hold, I have moved to what I refer to as the ‘head office’ and have enjoyed countless hours of riding. It always brings a huge smile to my face.
The dolphins made a guest appearance the other day. They were so close I thought we might surf the same wave. The family of five was more interested in fish than waves and I rode solo.
When the day is done and the body is crying for rest, sleep is deep. There is nothing like waking before sunrise to the sound of waves crashing on the beach and the prospect of more riding. In honour of the waves, I have posted a few surf shots.
Thursday, April 1, 2010
The Coconut Telegraph, Volume 12
April Fool's Day seemed an appropriate day for a new edition. This is no joke, however, this is very real. Enjoy.
Once again, The Coconut Telegraph has the pleasure of returning to Sangkhlaburi. This time, Jay "The Man" Flesher and Bruce "Broo" Hamelin joined me for the journey. Neither had the pleasure of visiting this scenic pocket of Thailand previously and they were both excited for the adventure.
We left Koh Phayam and Jayman and I did a visa-run before getting on our way. A short minibus across the Isthmus of Kra to Chumphon and a glorious ride to Bangkok on the sleeper train. Nothing compares with a good sleep on the way to Bangkok. The minivan to Kanchanaburi crawled around the road blocks and zig-zagged through the closures in Bangkok due to the Red Shirt protests. It took 35 minutes to wend our way to the bridge over the Chao Phaya River, but as soon as we crossed the water it was clear sailing. Another minivan to Sangkhlaburi arrived at our final destination 28 hours after setting foot on the speedboat.
Jayman and Broo were instantly enthralled with the town. After unpacking, they met Daisy Dwe, Programme Director for Weaving for Women. As the newly relocated loom clicked and clacked the boys were inspired to do a little shopping. Broo ordered a special bed sheet and a custom designed duvet cover - a first for the WFW weavers and tailors. Jayman bought a large stack of goods as well and the ladies had some work ahead to fill the orders before we left town. They succeeded and we departed five days later with more in our bags then when we arrived.
We paddled to the old Sangkhlaburi Temple which was flooded when the Vajiralongkorn Dam was constructed. At low water, the temple emerges from the water and we were able to walk about some of the structures.
I tour guided the boys to all the standard stops on my orientation tour: Wat Wangwiwekaram, the Mon Temple and the border at Three Pagodas Pass. We stopped at the Sanghalei River for a snack and a cold beverage and shopped like demons in the Mon market. Broo purchased a large and impressive wood carving made from a single piece of teak. We also had the pleasure of visiting the more remote Karen village of Ban Sane Pong on the first day of a three-day festival.
When all was said and done, we were in agreement that Sangkhlaburi will remain on the list of preferred locations in Thailand.
Click to view the complete edition of Volume 12
Once again, The Coconut Telegraph has the pleasure of returning to Sangkhlaburi. This time, Jay "The Man" Flesher and Bruce "Broo" Hamelin joined me for the journey. Neither had the pleasure of visiting this scenic pocket of Thailand previously and they were both excited for the adventure.
We left Koh Phayam and Jayman and I did a visa-run before getting on our way. A short minibus across the Isthmus of Kra to Chumphon and a glorious ride to Bangkok on the sleeper train. Nothing compares with a good sleep on the way to Bangkok. The minivan to Kanchanaburi crawled around the road blocks and zig-zagged through the closures in Bangkok due to the Red Shirt protests. It took 35 minutes to wend our way to the bridge over the Chao Phaya River, but as soon as we crossed the water it was clear sailing. Another minivan to Sangkhlaburi arrived at our final destination 28 hours after setting foot on the speedboat.
Jayman and Broo were instantly enthralled with the town. After unpacking, they met Daisy Dwe, Programme Director for Weaving for Women. As the newly relocated loom clicked and clacked the boys were inspired to do a little shopping. Broo ordered a special bed sheet and a custom designed duvet cover - a first for the WFW weavers and tailors. Jayman bought a large stack of goods as well and the ladies had some work ahead to fill the orders before we left town. They succeeded and we departed five days later with more in our bags then when we arrived.
We paddled to the old Sangkhlaburi Temple which was flooded when the Vajiralongkorn Dam was constructed. At low water, the temple emerges from the water and we were able to walk about some of the structures.
I tour guided the boys to all the standard stops on my orientation tour: Wat Wangwiwekaram, the Mon Temple and the border at Three Pagodas Pass. We stopped at the Sanghalei River for a snack and a cold beverage and shopped like demons in the Mon market. Broo purchased a large and impressive wood carving made from a single piece of teak. We also had the pleasure of visiting the more remote Karen village of Ban Sane Pong on the first day of a three-day festival.
When all was said and done, we were in agreement that Sangkhlaburi will remain on the list of preferred locations in Thailand.
Click to view the complete edition of Volume 12
Sunday, March 28, 2010
The Coconut Telegraph, Volume 11
The more things change the more they stay the same. This is one of those axioms that is oft repeated but not as frequently appreciated. I see the change happening on the island and as much as I like to recall "the good old days", I must also accept that in the grand scheme of things nothing has really changed. There is simply more of it. Koh Phayam remains a paradise.
People come and people go - this is a recurring theme when you live in a travelers' paradise for a longer period of time. After all, not everybody has months on end to be a bum, relax, play some sport and live life. How fortunate.
The Cashew Nut Festival came and went with the usual shenanigans. If you have never been to a Cashew Nut Festival you should experience one. That way you will know exactly what every other one was like and what future festivals will be. The events managed to be cobbled together without too many hiccups and the bars and restaurants lining the street were biggest success stories. Football was the sport highlight, with the Koh Chang team winning the tournament and then turning around and donating the prize money to the temple here on the island. There was a volleyball tourney and a half-assed attempt at kayak racing. Naturally, the parties on both nights were the highlights for most of the attendees.
There continue to be a lot of motorcycle crashes. Some incidents involve our old friend "alchohol", some excess speed, most a combination of both. The result, however, is usually the same - lots of bandages, a daily visit to the clinic and a repair bill.
"The Canadians" returned en masse from various locations around the globe and had a blast. They truly demonstrated what it means to have fun. Their antics were witnessed from Aow Yai Beach to the village and even as far as Buffalo Bay. Truth be told, the people on the Burma side are still recovering from their overnighter to Victoria Point to drink Burma draft.
There seems to be a flurry of building on the road from Smile Hut and along. Massage Oiy is building a new shop opposite Porn. She will offer a variety of coffee, fresh baked products, wifi and more. It will be a nice wifi zone with a comfortable atmosphere.
Spring is in the air. Enjoy.
If you liked "A Better Burnout", check out the video version.
Click to read the complete edition of Volume 11.
People come and people go - this is a recurring theme when you live in a travelers' paradise for a longer period of time. After all, not everybody has months on end to be a bum, relax, play some sport and live life. How fortunate.
The Cashew Nut Festival came and went with the usual shenanigans. If you have never been to a Cashew Nut Festival you should experience one. That way you will know exactly what every other one was like and what future festivals will be. The events managed to be cobbled together without too many hiccups and the bars and restaurants lining the street were biggest success stories. Football was the sport highlight, with the Koh Chang team winning the tournament and then turning around and donating the prize money to the temple here on the island. There was a volleyball tourney and a half-assed attempt at kayak racing. Naturally, the parties on both nights were the highlights for most of the attendees.
There continue to be a lot of motorcycle crashes. Some incidents involve our old friend "alchohol", some excess speed, most a combination of both. The result, however, is usually the same - lots of bandages, a daily visit to the clinic and a repair bill.
"The Canadians" returned en masse from various locations around the globe and had a blast. They truly demonstrated what it means to have fun. Their antics were witnessed from Aow Yai Beach to the village and even as far as Buffalo Bay. Truth be told, the people on the Burma side are still recovering from their overnighter to Victoria Point to drink Burma draft.
There seems to be a flurry of building on the road from Smile Hut and along. Massage Oiy is building a new shop opposite Porn. She will offer a variety of coffee, fresh baked products, wifi and more. It will be a nice wifi zone with a comfortable atmosphere.
Spring is in the air. Enjoy.
If you liked "A Better Burnout", check out the video version.
Click to read the complete edition of Volume 11.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Return to Blogging
It has been quite a while since I last posted on my blog. Frankly, I am not up to speed on most of this stuff and let my account lag. I have fallen into the same black hole that other vagrant bloggers on blogspot like myself have discovered: it seems there is no way to recover old passwords from the old blogspot and reactivate the account. So, I have created a new account under the Google empire and will start afresh.
If you care, check out the old blog.
I will endeavour to be more current and more frequent with my posts.
If you care, check out the old blog.
I will endeavour to be more current and more frequent with my posts.
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