As the sun set on my final day on Koh Phayam it seemed somehow fitting that I was eating barbecued chicken and sticky rice not with other foreigners but with Burmese friends.
The sun dipped below the horizon and the black rain clouds moved closer. The tempestuous colours on Aow Yai Beach went through several phases until dark set in.
As the sky opened up, I reflected on another good season on the island. It has been a season of change, in many different ways, but change is good.
The final issue of The Coconut Telegraph went online yesterday. Lucky #13.
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Surf Photos, 2010
I am always waiting for waves. Whenever the surf is up, life goes on hold. The logic is simple: we wait for the waves; the waves do not wait for us.
The past few days, the goddess of the sea has been smiling and the waves have been up. With life on hold, I have moved to what I refer to as the ‘head office’ and have enjoyed countless hours of riding. It always brings a huge smile to my face.
The dolphins made a guest appearance the other day. They were so close I thought we might surf the same wave. The family of five was more interested in fish than waves and I rode solo.
When the day is done and the body is crying for rest, sleep is deep. There is nothing like waking before sunrise to the sound of waves crashing on the beach and the prospect of more riding. In honour of the waves, I have posted a few surf shots.
The past few days, the goddess of the sea has been smiling and the waves have been up. With life on hold, I have moved to what I refer to as the ‘head office’ and have enjoyed countless hours of riding. It always brings a huge smile to my face.
The dolphins made a guest appearance the other day. They were so close I thought we might surf the same wave. The family of five was more interested in fish than waves and I rode solo.
When the day is done and the body is crying for rest, sleep is deep. There is nothing like waking before sunrise to the sound of waves crashing on the beach and the prospect of more riding. In honour of the waves, I have posted a few surf shots.
Thursday, April 1, 2010
The Coconut Telegraph, Volume 12
April Fool's Day seemed an appropriate day for a new edition. This is no joke, however, this is very real. Enjoy.
Once again, The Coconut Telegraph has the pleasure of returning to Sangkhlaburi. This time, Jay "The Man" Flesher and Bruce "Broo" Hamelin joined me for the journey. Neither had the pleasure of visiting this scenic pocket of Thailand previously and they were both excited for the adventure.
We left Koh Phayam and Jayman and I did a visa-run before getting on our way. A short minibus across the Isthmus of Kra to Chumphon and a glorious ride to Bangkok on the sleeper train. Nothing compares with a good sleep on the way to Bangkok. The minivan to Kanchanaburi crawled around the road blocks and zig-zagged through the closures in Bangkok due to the Red Shirt protests. It took 35 minutes to wend our way to the bridge over the Chao Phaya River, but as soon as we crossed the water it was clear sailing. Another minivan to Sangkhlaburi arrived at our final destination 28 hours after setting foot on the speedboat.
Jayman and Broo were instantly enthralled with the town. After unpacking, they met Daisy Dwe, Programme Director for Weaving for Women. As the newly relocated loom clicked and clacked the boys were inspired to do a little shopping. Broo ordered a special bed sheet and a custom designed duvet cover - a first for the WFW weavers and tailors. Jayman bought a large stack of goods as well and the ladies had some work ahead to fill the orders before we left town. They succeeded and we departed five days later with more in our bags then when we arrived.
We paddled to the old Sangkhlaburi Temple which was flooded when the Vajiralongkorn Dam was constructed. At low water, the temple emerges from the water and we were able to walk about some of the structures.
I tour guided the boys to all the standard stops on my orientation tour: Wat Wangwiwekaram, the Mon Temple and the border at Three Pagodas Pass. We stopped at the Sanghalei River for a snack and a cold beverage and shopped like demons in the Mon market. Broo purchased a large and impressive wood carving made from a single piece of teak. We also had the pleasure of visiting the more remote Karen village of Ban Sane Pong on the first day of a three-day festival.
When all was said and done, we were in agreement that Sangkhlaburi will remain on the list of preferred locations in Thailand.
Click to view the complete edition of Volume 12
Once again, The Coconut Telegraph has the pleasure of returning to Sangkhlaburi. This time, Jay "The Man" Flesher and Bruce "Broo" Hamelin joined me for the journey. Neither had the pleasure of visiting this scenic pocket of Thailand previously and they were both excited for the adventure.
We left Koh Phayam and Jayman and I did a visa-run before getting on our way. A short minibus across the Isthmus of Kra to Chumphon and a glorious ride to Bangkok on the sleeper train. Nothing compares with a good sleep on the way to Bangkok. The minivan to Kanchanaburi crawled around the road blocks and zig-zagged through the closures in Bangkok due to the Red Shirt protests. It took 35 minutes to wend our way to the bridge over the Chao Phaya River, but as soon as we crossed the water it was clear sailing. Another minivan to Sangkhlaburi arrived at our final destination 28 hours after setting foot on the speedboat.
Jayman and Broo were instantly enthralled with the town. After unpacking, they met Daisy Dwe, Programme Director for Weaving for Women. As the newly relocated loom clicked and clacked the boys were inspired to do a little shopping. Broo ordered a special bed sheet and a custom designed duvet cover - a first for the WFW weavers and tailors. Jayman bought a large stack of goods as well and the ladies had some work ahead to fill the orders before we left town. They succeeded and we departed five days later with more in our bags then when we arrived.
We paddled to the old Sangkhlaburi Temple which was flooded when the Vajiralongkorn Dam was constructed. At low water, the temple emerges from the water and we were able to walk about some of the structures.
I tour guided the boys to all the standard stops on my orientation tour: Wat Wangwiwekaram, the Mon Temple and the border at Three Pagodas Pass. We stopped at the Sanghalei River for a snack and a cold beverage and shopped like demons in the Mon market. Broo purchased a large and impressive wood carving made from a single piece of teak. We also had the pleasure of visiting the more remote Karen village of Ban Sane Pong on the first day of a three-day festival.
When all was said and done, we were in agreement that Sangkhlaburi will remain on the list of preferred locations in Thailand.
Click to view the complete edition of Volume 12
Sunday, March 28, 2010
The Coconut Telegraph, Volume 11
The more things change the more they stay the same. This is one of those axioms that is oft repeated but not as frequently appreciated. I see the change happening on the island and as much as I like to recall "the good old days", I must also accept that in the grand scheme of things nothing has really changed. There is simply more of it. Koh Phayam remains a paradise.
People come and people go - this is a recurring theme when you live in a travelers' paradise for a longer period of time. After all, not everybody has months on end to be a bum, relax, play some sport and live life. How fortunate.
The Cashew Nut Festival came and went with the usual shenanigans. If you have never been to a Cashew Nut Festival you should experience one. That way you will know exactly what every other one was like and what future festivals will be. The events managed to be cobbled together without too many hiccups and the bars and restaurants lining the street were biggest success stories. Football was the sport highlight, with the Koh Chang team winning the tournament and then turning around and donating the prize money to the temple here on the island. There was a volleyball tourney and a half-assed attempt at kayak racing. Naturally, the parties on both nights were the highlights for most of the attendees.
There continue to be a lot of motorcycle crashes. Some incidents involve our old friend "alchohol", some excess speed, most a combination of both. The result, however, is usually the same - lots of bandages, a daily visit to the clinic and a repair bill.
"The Canadians" returned en masse from various locations around the globe and had a blast. They truly demonstrated what it means to have fun. Their antics were witnessed from Aow Yai Beach to the village and even as far as Buffalo Bay. Truth be told, the people on the Burma side are still recovering from their overnighter to Victoria Point to drink Burma draft.
There seems to be a flurry of building on the road from Smile Hut and along. Massage Oiy is building a new shop opposite Porn. She will offer a variety of coffee, fresh baked products, wifi and more. It will be a nice wifi zone with a comfortable atmosphere.
Spring is in the air. Enjoy.
If you liked "A Better Burnout", check out the video version.
Click to read the complete edition of Volume 11.
People come and people go - this is a recurring theme when you live in a travelers' paradise for a longer period of time. After all, not everybody has months on end to be a bum, relax, play some sport and live life. How fortunate.
The Cashew Nut Festival came and went with the usual shenanigans. If you have never been to a Cashew Nut Festival you should experience one. That way you will know exactly what every other one was like and what future festivals will be. The events managed to be cobbled together without too many hiccups and the bars and restaurants lining the street were biggest success stories. Football was the sport highlight, with the Koh Chang team winning the tournament and then turning around and donating the prize money to the temple here on the island. There was a volleyball tourney and a half-assed attempt at kayak racing. Naturally, the parties on both nights were the highlights for most of the attendees.
There continue to be a lot of motorcycle crashes. Some incidents involve our old friend "alchohol", some excess speed, most a combination of both. The result, however, is usually the same - lots of bandages, a daily visit to the clinic and a repair bill.
"The Canadians" returned en masse from various locations around the globe and had a blast. They truly demonstrated what it means to have fun. Their antics were witnessed from Aow Yai Beach to the village and even as far as Buffalo Bay. Truth be told, the people on the Burma side are still recovering from their overnighter to Victoria Point to drink Burma draft.
There seems to be a flurry of building on the road from Smile Hut and along. Massage Oiy is building a new shop opposite Porn. She will offer a variety of coffee, fresh baked products, wifi and more. It will be a nice wifi zone with a comfortable atmosphere.
Spring is in the air. Enjoy.
If you liked "A Better Burnout", check out the video version.
Click to read the complete edition of Volume 11.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Return to Blogging
It has been quite a while since I last posted on my blog. Frankly, I am not up to speed on most of this stuff and let my account lag. I have fallen into the same black hole that other vagrant bloggers on blogspot like myself have discovered: it seems there is no way to recover old passwords from the old blogspot and reactivate the account. So, I have created a new account under the Google empire and will start afresh.
If you care, check out the old blog.
I will endeavour to be more current and more frequent with my posts.
If you care, check out the old blog.
I will endeavour to be more current and more frequent with my posts.
Monday, November 17, 2008
The Secret is Out
Wave Riding on Koh Phayam
The noise of waves crashing wakes me from a deep sleep and I know from the sound that they are substantial. I climb out of bed and a few minutes later I am in the ocean watching the dawn sky transform through a series of pinks and blues. The beach is empty and for a short time I own the place. Moments like this take on a mystical quality and I become philosophical as I reflect on my good fortune.
Outside, a set of waves starts to roll in and I shift into position to catch my first wave. A few quick strokes of my paddle and I am on the shoulder of a 3 footer riding left. Days like this are magical.
What’s the point of trying to keep a secret when it’s far more enjoyable to share the discovery with others? At least with others who would make the trek to this stretch of serene beachfront. My guilty pleasure of the past few years has found me naively guarding the identity of an island in Thailand’s Andaman Sea; an island of pristine beaches, a mere of trickle tourism and, undeniably, surfing waves.
Koh Phayam lies off the coast of Ranong Province very close to the Burma border. Accessible by daily ferries from Ranong town, the island has so far escaped the scourge of overdevelopment. Picture Samui in the ‘70s and you begin to form an appreciation of the island’s habitual quiet. Now add waves.
Aow Yai Beach, a 3km crescent of white sand, is where the occasional bout of good surf can be found. When storms brew in the Bay of Bengal during certain times of the year, an obliging though not overpowering surf makes its way to these shores.
Breaking waves on Aow Yai Beach surprised me the first time I came here. Intrigued with its potential, I spent a couple weeks body surfing, boogie boarding and watching the break. It’s a beach break, but when the swell picks up there are clean lefts and rights, most often at the center of the beach. The prospect of a longer board would provide hours of fun, I imagined.
Deciding to spend a season on Aow Yai I investigated the full range of water toys, starting with surf boards. Airlines typically allow a maximum length of 8’ 10” so a long board was out. Its inherent limitations nudged me to consider kayaks, sailboards and kite boards, with the natural progression of possibilities guiding me to the surf kayak. Flat water paddling options for those no-wave days combined with all the latitude, speed and thrills of a surf board – the surf kayak made its case loud and clear.
My research led me to an Islander “LipStik” – perfect for paddling and, at 8’ 8”, just within airline length regulations. Problem was, the manufacturer had tanked, so the search got a bit more involved. Fortunately, I located a new one in New Jersey, had it shipped to Canada, and I soon flew it to Thailand without a hitch.
On Koh Phayam I was stoked to find that it rides just like a mid-length surf board, fast and quick on the edge. The board moves well in the water and you can chase down almost any wave. With the removable fin off, the board has some slippage but there is no danger of damage and it is easy to perform 360’s. When the waves get larger, I install the fin and it tracks as if on rails.
I’ve enjoyed Aow Yai Beach for five seasons now, riding the waves and claiming exclusive rights to the break. Every season brings with it a few board-less surfers who marvel at the waves. One was Tomer, an Israeli musician and surf fanatic who was so pumped by January’s waves that he used a children’s trainer to chase the surf. Three days offered him enough swell to get some drops.
Next was a Belgian, David, who, coming off of four months in Trat province with only two days of surfing to show for his patience, found immediate satisfaction here. Having brought a board, his first day on Aow Yai welcomed him with swells easily topping a meter. David rode lefts and rights for several hours with wild-eyed excitement. When the sun set and he could ride no more, David called a friend at home and advised him to come immediately. Four days later, Christophe arrived with board in hand.
Moments like this naturally cultivate some chatter. Word gets out and soon others are starting to show up with boards looking for waves.
The best months for surfing are late October into November and April on into May. The monsoon with its powerful WNW winds subsides in October and the winds reverse, becoming offshore, which generates conditions for good left and right beach breaks. Come April and May, just before onslaught of the monsoon, the swell in the Andaman Sea increases and suddenly two meter waves are not uncommon. For long board riders or surf kayakers, December to March pose plenty of opportunities to ride.
Aow Yai accommodates every budget and style with nine bungalow operations lining the beach. Some bungalows have boogie boards for borrow or rent, but they are generally in poor condition. Bring your own equipment and avoid disappointment. If you arrive without a board, you may be lucky enough to rent or borrow something moderately functional from Aow Yai Bungalows or Bamboo Bungalows. The sign hanging in the Rasta Baby Bar is actually a surf board and I’ve seen it ridden in the past.
For those flat days, rent kayaks from several places on the beach. The snorkeling is good at the NW end of the beach and there are plenty of nooks and crannies to discover if you care to paddle a little further.
Great eats beachside and off-beach in Aow Yai Village are plentiful. Recommendations include starting the day at Silver Sand with fresh coffee mixed fruit salad with yogurt; My Barbeque for the fresh fish and nighttime entertainment; and, Café de Cool where chilling out and watching the always remarkable sunset is just one of an abundance of options. Other considerations include noshing at Bamboo Bungalow’s restaurant, the South Star where you can pick away at one of the house guitars over a cold beer, and working your way to down the far end of the beach to Rasta Baby Bar, a perennial favourite with backpackers thanks to its mellow atmosphere.
Just off the beach, Baan Nam Cha serves great food, a variety of teas and fresh baked goods. Next door, Horizon serves complements its Thai menu with fresh Italian pasta. The best massage on the island is at Thitirat’s House – ask for Oiy, she has magic hands that will work out the kinks from a long day in the water.
There are also plenty of other accommodations on other beaches around the island and the village at the pier has restaurants, shops and other services. Internet is widely available with WIFI at some locations.
The atmosphere remains very friendly on the island. Locals are warm and visitors are open and appreciative, which lends itself to a pleasant dynamic for all. Koh Phayam is definitely kid-friendly, as evidenced by the number of young families who enjoy the safe environment.
Although the secret is out, there are few surfers coming to Aow Yai. Hopefully, the waves will oblige and return with regularity. From this vantage point on my surf kayak, I cannot imagine anything more enjoyable than riding waves when a crowd means four, the atmosphere is friendly and the ocean is my playground.
To view surf photos, click here
For more info about other breaks in Thailand, check out:
http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Asia/Thailand/
Who knows, maybe Aow Yai will show up on this site some day.
Copyright, Tim Morch, 2008
The noise of waves crashing wakes me from a deep sleep and I know from the sound that they are substantial. I climb out of bed and a few minutes later I am in the ocean watching the dawn sky transform through a series of pinks and blues. The beach is empty and for a short time I own the place. Moments like this take on a mystical quality and I become philosophical as I reflect on my good fortune.
Outside, a set of waves starts to roll in and I shift into position to catch my first wave. A few quick strokes of my paddle and I am on the shoulder of a 3 footer riding left. Days like this are magical.
What’s the point of trying to keep a secret when it’s far more enjoyable to share the discovery with others? At least with others who would make the trek to this stretch of serene beachfront. My guilty pleasure of the past few years has found me naively guarding the identity of an island in Thailand’s Andaman Sea; an island of pristine beaches, a mere of trickle tourism and, undeniably, surfing waves.
Koh Phayam lies off the coast of Ranong Province very close to the Burma border. Accessible by daily ferries from Ranong town, the island has so far escaped the scourge of overdevelopment. Picture Samui in the ‘70s and you begin to form an appreciation of the island’s habitual quiet. Now add waves.
Aow Yai Beach, a 3km crescent of white sand, is where the occasional bout of good surf can be found. When storms brew in the Bay of Bengal during certain times of the year, an obliging though not overpowering surf makes its way to these shores.
Breaking waves on Aow Yai Beach surprised me the first time I came here. Intrigued with its potential, I spent a couple weeks body surfing, boogie boarding and watching the break. It’s a beach break, but when the swell picks up there are clean lefts and rights, most often at the center of the beach. The prospect of a longer board would provide hours of fun, I imagined.
Deciding to spend a season on Aow Yai I investigated the full range of water toys, starting with surf boards. Airlines typically allow a maximum length of 8’ 10” so a long board was out. Its inherent limitations nudged me to consider kayaks, sailboards and kite boards, with the natural progression of possibilities guiding me to the surf kayak. Flat water paddling options for those no-wave days combined with all the latitude, speed and thrills of a surf board – the surf kayak made its case loud and clear.
My research led me to an Islander “LipStik” – perfect for paddling and, at 8’ 8”, just within airline length regulations. Problem was, the manufacturer had tanked, so the search got a bit more involved. Fortunately, I located a new one in New Jersey, had it shipped to Canada, and I soon flew it to Thailand without a hitch.
On Koh Phayam I was stoked to find that it rides just like a mid-length surf board, fast and quick on the edge. The board moves well in the water and you can chase down almost any wave. With the removable fin off, the board has some slippage but there is no danger of damage and it is easy to perform 360’s. When the waves get larger, I install the fin and it tracks as if on rails.
I’ve enjoyed Aow Yai Beach for five seasons now, riding the waves and claiming exclusive rights to the break. Every season brings with it a few board-less surfers who marvel at the waves. One was Tomer, an Israeli musician and surf fanatic who was so pumped by January’s waves that he used a children’s trainer to chase the surf. Three days offered him enough swell to get some drops.
Next was a Belgian, David, who, coming off of four months in Trat province with only two days of surfing to show for his patience, found immediate satisfaction here. Having brought a board, his first day on Aow Yai welcomed him with swells easily topping a meter. David rode lefts and rights for several hours with wild-eyed excitement. When the sun set and he could ride no more, David called a friend at home and advised him to come immediately. Four days later, Christophe arrived with board in hand.
Moments like this naturally cultivate some chatter. Word gets out and soon others are starting to show up with boards looking for waves.
The best months for surfing are late October into November and April on into May. The monsoon with its powerful WNW winds subsides in October and the winds reverse, becoming offshore, which generates conditions for good left and right beach breaks. Come April and May, just before onslaught of the monsoon, the swell in the Andaman Sea increases and suddenly two meter waves are not uncommon. For long board riders or surf kayakers, December to March pose plenty of opportunities to ride.
Aow Yai accommodates every budget and style with nine bungalow operations lining the beach. Some bungalows have boogie boards for borrow or rent, but they are generally in poor condition. Bring your own equipment and avoid disappointment. If you arrive without a board, you may be lucky enough to rent or borrow something moderately functional from Aow Yai Bungalows or Bamboo Bungalows. The sign hanging in the Rasta Baby Bar is actually a surf board and I’ve seen it ridden in the past.
For those flat days, rent kayaks from several places on the beach. The snorkeling is good at the NW end of the beach and there are plenty of nooks and crannies to discover if you care to paddle a little further.
Great eats beachside and off-beach in Aow Yai Village are plentiful. Recommendations include starting the day at Silver Sand with fresh coffee mixed fruit salad with yogurt; My Barbeque for the fresh fish and nighttime entertainment; and, Café de Cool where chilling out and watching the always remarkable sunset is just one of an abundance of options. Other considerations include noshing at Bamboo Bungalow’s restaurant, the South Star where you can pick away at one of the house guitars over a cold beer, and working your way to down the far end of the beach to Rasta Baby Bar, a perennial favourite with backpackers thanks to its mellow atmosphere.
Just off the beach, Baan Nam Cha serves great food, a variety of teas and fresh baked goods. Next door, Horizon serves complements its Thai menu with fresh Italian pasta. The best massage on the island is at Thitirat’s House – ask for Oiy, she has magic hands that will work out the kinks from a long day in the water.
There are also plenty of other accommodations on other beaches around the island and the village at the pier has restaurants, shops and other services. Internet is widely available with WIFI at some locations.
The atmosphere remains very friendly on the island. Locals are warm and visitors are open and appreciative, which lends itself to a pleasant dynamic for all. Koh Phayam is definitely kid-friendly, as evidenced by the number of young families who enjoy the safe environment.
Although the secret is out, there are few surfers coming to Aow Yai. Hopefully, the waves will oblige and return with regularity. From this vantage point on my surf kayak, I cannot imagine anything more enjoyable than riding waves when a crowd means four, the atmosphere is friendly and the ocean is my playground.
To view surf photos, click here
For more info about other breaks in Thailand, check out:
http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Asia/Thailand/
Who knows, maybe Aow Yai will show up on this site some day.
Copyright, Tim Morch, 2008
Friday, February 22, 2008
Prisoner of Penang
The Visa Run
Anybody who spends more than 30 days in Thailand is familiar with the “visa run”. This involves a trip to the nearest border – which is often not so near - to stamp out of Thailand, cross the border and return to the Kingdom to enjoy another 30 days. In southern Thailand the 30-day visa run is usually to the Burma or Malaysia border.
When 90 days in Thailand have expired the visa run becomes a major undertaking to a Thai Embassy or Consulate in a neighbouring nation. A common place to attain an embassy/consular visa is Penang, Malaysia. According to the official Thai immigration website express visas are processed on the same day. A service charge applies.
I stay in Ranong Province and the 30-day visa run is close by to the Burma border. I have done the consular visa run to Penang before and it has been quite easy and fast once you reach Penang Of course, getting there is the long part.
I knew this particular visa run would be interesting when my friend Pon, owner of Pon’s Place in Ranong, told me the train was full and I would have to go by bus. I boarded the 8pm bus to Had Yai to find myself seated beside a large and unyielding woman who occupied her seat and half my seat. I squeezed in and established a little space in about ¾ of the allotted area She seemed to care little about proper seating and had no problem sitting half on top of me, thigh on thigh.
As the bus departed we were treated to the typical Thai karaoke videos. Fortunately the volume was not the customary ear piercing level, a small bonus. After a few stops to collect the remaining passengers we headed south toward Phuket and then east through the mountains to Surat Thani. I managed to keep most of my ¾ space but was unable to get any sleep from the combination of discomfort and loud chit-chat and cackles from the driver and crew just in front of me.
I squirmed around so that my neighbour and I were now butt to butt, she facing the window, me the aisle and caught a few minutes of shuteye before the attendant decided to crank up the music. It took some time for him to realize he had turned it up for the whole bus and not just the front cab. He finally turned it down but not until most of the people on board were awake. The squirming game with my neighbour continued for the next 7 hours until we finally reached Had Yai.
In Had Yai the only open place at 3:30am was, not coincidentally, where they hawked minivans to Penang. The initial price of 450 Thai Baht (TB) was reduced to 350TB after lengthy discussion. My Thai is not strong, but good enough to negotiate. I sat for the next 5 hours waiting for the 8:30am departure desperate to catch a few moments of unsettled sleep before the next leg of the journey.
The minivans rarely leave on time and today was no exception It departed late and immediately stopped at head office to register the passports of each passenger. Around 9:30am the van finally left Had Yai and in spite of a delay at the border arrived in Penang on Tuesday around 2:30pm. Malaysia is one hour ahead of Thailand.
At N.J. visa service on Chulia Street, Mr. Muhammed Haji Jabar advised me to pay the 100 Malaysian Ringit (MR) for the express service as Chinese New Year was two days away and the regular service would not return until the 11th because of the holiday. Hoping to return to Thailand as quickly as possible I paid the fee happily. Mr. Muhammed then explained that the regulations had unexpectedly changed Feb. 1st and the application required an air ticket out of Thailand. Fortunately, I had my laptop with me and printed the e-ticket to fulfill the requirements. Next, Mr. Muhammed said the consulate required proof of a hotel receipt in Thailand something I definitely did not have.
“Don’t worry,” he said, “I will take care of that for you.” I thanked him and went to one of the dozens of nearby cheap hotels to sleep off 16 hours of travel.
Wednesday morning I went to the visa service to check on the status of my application and Mr. Muhammed advised me the vice-consul, Mr. Panurit Chamrasromram had informed the staff at the consulate that he might not sign any applications that day. There was a 50% chance I would not get my visa until Monday! I told him that if there was anything I could do to see that I got my passport - like pay more money - I would be happy to do so. After all, I just paid 100MR for the express service which might not be. Mr. Muhammed said it was not about money. His contacts had told him the vice-consul simply wanted to start his holidays early and to check back in one hour. When I returned, Mr. Muhammed said the chance I would get my passport that day was now 30%.
“Please check in one hour,” Mr. Muhammed advised. An hour later the odds were reduced to zero and Mr. Muhammed returned my express fee and apologized.
“There is nothing I can do, I am sorry,” he said as he counted out 100MR.
“Is there anyone in the consulate I can talk to?” I asked of Mr. Muhammed. He dialed a number and handed me the telephone. The voice on the other end told me there was no way I would get my visa that day. I pointed out the official website advised a one-day service was available for a fee. The man on the other end said “the website is not correct.”
“How can the official website be incorrect?” I asked.
“It’s not my problem, it’s yours,” he responded and hung up the phone. To add insult to injury, the vice-consul locked my passport as well as those of dozens of others in the same situation inside the consulate and there was no way to access them until Monday - 5 days later. I could not leave Malaysia to apply in Indonesia or Singapore and thus became a “prisoner of Penang.”
A young French woman overheard my conversation with the consul staffer and asked what I had learned. “Nothing,” I said as my irritation increased.
“I came here for a work visa,” she explained. “I have been hired as a manager by the Hiatt Hotel in Hua Hin and the company lawyers prepared all the documents. They advised me to come to Penang where I was assured I would get my visa the same day. I am supposed to start work Monday and I will not even receive my passport until Monday afternoon,” she said on the verge of tears.
We decided to drown our displeasure in alchohol. By coincidence, I met another Canadian in the bar who had just been to Kota Baru. She informed me that the consulate there does not require the ongoing ticket or a hotel receipt in Thailand. She had received her visa in one day without any problem. This further increased my irritation as I knew that I would remain a prisoner of Penang for the next five days.
Next time you go to Malaysia, I recommend Kota Baru. Perhaps the Consul Mr. Surapon Petch-vra and his team will treat you better than the Penang prison masters.
Copyright, Tim Morch, 2008
Anybody who spends more than 30 days in Thailand is familiar with the “visa run”. This involves a trip to the nearest border – which is often not so near - to stamp out of Thailand, cross the border and return to the Kingdom to enjoy another 30 days. In southern Thailand the 30-day visa run is usually to the Burma or Malaysia border.
When 90 days in Thailand have expired the visa run becomes a major undertaking to a Thai Embassy or Consulate in a neighbouring nation. A common place to attain an embassy/consular visa is Penang, Malaysia. According to the official Thai immigration website express visas are processed on the same day. A service charge applies.
I stay in Ranong Province and the 30-day visa run is close by to the Burma border. I have done the consular visa run to Penang before and it has been quite easy and fast once you reach Penang Of course, getting there is the long part.
I knew this particular visa run would be interesting when my friend Pon, owner of Pon’s Place in Ranong, told me the train was full and I would have to go by bus. I boarded the 8pm bus to Had Yai to find myself seated beside a large and unyielding woman who occupied her seat and half my seat. I squeezed in and established a little space in about ¾ of the allotted area She seemed to care little about proper seating and had no problem sitting half on top of me, thigh on thigh.
As the bus departed we were treated to the typical Thai karaoke videos. Fortunately the volume was not the customary ear piercing level, a small bonus. After a few stops to collect the remaining passengers we headed south toward Phuket and then east through the mountains to Surat Thani. I managed to keep most of my ¾ space but was unable to get any sleep from the combination of discomfort and loud chit-chat and cackles from the driver and crew just in front of me.
I squirmed around so that my neighbour and I were now butt to butt, she facing the window, me the aisle and caught a few minutes of shuteye before the attendant decided to crank up the music. It took some time for him to realize he had turned it up for the whole bus and not just the front cab. He finally turned it down but not until most of the people on board were awake. The squirming game with my neighbour continued for the next 7 hours until we finally reached Had Yai.
In Had Yai the only open place at 3:30am was, not coincidentally, where they hawked minivans to Penang. The initial price of 450 Thai Baht (TB) was reduced to 350TB after lengthy discussion. My Thai is not strong, but good enough to negotiate. I sat for the next 5 hours waiting for the 8:30am departure desperate to catch a few moments of unsettled sleep before the next leg of the journey.
The minivans rarely leave on time and today was no exception It departed late and immediately stopped at head office to register the passports of each passenger. Around 9:30am the van finally left Had Yai and in spite of a delay at the border arrived in Penang on Tuesday around 2:30pm. Malaysia is one hour ahead of Thailand.
At N.J. visa service on Chulia Street, Mr. Muhammed Haji Jabar advised me to pay the 100 Malaysian Ringit (MR) for the express service as Chinese New Year was two days away and the regular service would not return until the 11th because of the holiday. Hoping to return to Thailand as quickly as possible I paid the fee happily. Mr. Muhammed then explained that the regulations had unexpectedly changed Feb. 1st and the application required an air ticket out of Thailand. Fortunately, I had my laptop with me and printed the e-ticket to fulfill the requirements. Next, Mr. Muhammed said the consulate required proof of a hotel receipt in Thailand something I definitely did not have.
“Don’t worry,” he said, “I will take care of that for you.” I thanked him and went to one of the dozens of nearby cheap hotels to sleep off 16 hours of travel.
Wednesday morning I went to the visa service to check on the status of my application and Mr. Muhammed advised me the vice-consul, Mr. Panurit Chamrasromram had informed the staff at the consulate that he might not sign any applications that day. There was a 50% chance I would not get my visa until Monday! I told him that if there was anything I could do to see that I got my passport - like pay more money - I would be happy to do so. After all, I just paid 100MR for the express service which might not be. Mr. Muhammed said it was not about money. His contacts had told him the vice-consul simply wanted to start his holidays early and to check back in one hour. When I returned, Mr. Muhammed said the chance I would get my passport that day was now 30%.
“Please check in one hour,” Mr. Muhammed advised. An hour later the odds were reduced to zero and Mr. Muhammed returned my express fee and apologized.
“There is nothing I can do, I am sorry,” he said as he counted out 100MR.
“Is there anyone in the consulate I can talk to?” I asked of Mr. Muhammed. He dialed a number and handed me the telephone. The voice on the other end told me there was no way I would get my visa that day. I pointed out the official website advised a one-day service was available for a fee. The man on the other end said “the website is not correct.”
“How can the official website be incorrect?” I asked.
“It’s not my problem, it’s yours,” he responded and hung up the phone. To add insult to injury, the vice-consul locked my passport as well as those of dozens of others in the same situation inside the consulate and there was no way to access them until Monday - 5 days later. I could not leave Malaysia to apply in Indonesia or Singapore and thus became a “prisoner of Penang.”
A young French woman overheard my conversation with the consul staffer and asked what I had learned. “Nothing,” I said as my irritation increased.
“I came here for a work visa,” she explained. “I have been hired as a manager by the Hiatt Hotel in Hua Hin and the company lawyers prepared all the documents. They advised me to come to Penang where I was assured I would get my visa the same day. I am supposed to start work Monday and I will not even receive my passport until Monday afternoon,” she said on the verge of tears.
We decided to drown our displeasure in alchohol. By coincidence, I met another Canadian in the bar who had just been to Kota Baru. She informed me that the consulate there does not require the ongoing ticket or a hotel receipt in Thailand. She had received her visa in one day without any problem. This further increased my irritation as I knew that I would remain a prisoner of Penang for the next five days.
Next time you go to Malaysia, I recommend Kota Baru. Perhaps the Consul Mr. Surapon Petch-vra and his team will treat you better than the Penang prison masters.
Copyright, Tim Morch, 2008
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