Anyone who stays on Koh Phayam for a length of time knows just how cyclical the island is. From mid-October until mid-December, there are few foreigners, the vibe is mellow and there are plenty of opportunities to get to know the local people, rekindle relationships and enjoy some quiet time in their company. This time of the year is a particular favourite of mine.
The switch gets flipped somewhere around December 20th when the holiday-makers arrive in droves. Gone is the backpack toting, wannabe hippy crowd - welcome to the suitcase with wheels world. Space is tight, rates are raised as everyone wants those elusive Euros and dollars. People are too busy to remember to breath and everyone starts the whine that they are working too hard.
Things level out somewhat in March and the downturn in arrivals is gradual. This season, the weather was very unusual and March saw a lot of rain. It damaged the cashew crop and the psyche of tourists, who left in flocks. The island was deserted and it seemed as though that peaceful "end of season" period was upon us. Then, along comes Songkran - Thai New Year - and along come the expats on holiday, along come the Thais and along comes the water. Songkran is always a special time of year in small communities like Koh Phayam. Here, the flavour is participation not aggravation. Sure, you might find some cold water, or colored powder, but that comes from someone you know - someone to whom you can return the favour.
My last days on Koh Phayam delivered fantastic surf! Check out the Beach Report for a full breakdown. To view surf photos, click here.
As happens every year, I visited my Weaving for Women friends in Sangkhlaburi, near the Three Pagodas Pass Burmese border crossing. It has been a tough year for them as tourism was especially low this year following the October clashes on the border, poor weather, a dismal world economy and so on. Nonetheless, I am continually impressed by their endurance, survival skills and above all continued ability to smile in the midst of all these trials and tribulations. The town continues to change with each passing day.
Check out the full edition of The Coconut Telegraph. Click here.
And so, it is time to pack up, carry on and return to try and find some elusive dollars for the next adventure.
Showing posts with label surf Thailand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label surf Thailand. Show all posts
Wednesday, May 4, 2011
Tuesday, April 12, 2011
Surf Koh Phayam
It's one of those things we never look forward to, yet something we shall never evade. It's called change. It comes in many forms, wags as many tails as it tells tales and rarely delivers the goods.
But sometimes, change is good. And here is one example that I have had the pleasure to watch evolve. Surf Koh Phayam, located at South Star Surf Bar, is a welcome addition to the island scene. Surfing is healthy and fun - without even mentioning the "zen" thing, simple pleasures or gravity sport adrenaline.
As I watch the number of riders in the water grow from one to six in as many years, I do not fear crowds. There are plenty of other convenient places to ride - but there will not likely be as many places as friendly.
Drop in on me - no problem - I might grab hold of your board and shake it if I know you. Otherwise, I will turn away and look for the next ride. It's always 'the next ride'. Analogies could be made - but there shall be none.
This also brings potential for the off-season, when we have all forgotten our so-called "friends" on the island and lie basking in the western sun and western earnings while they are pounded by rain, wind and WAVES. Yes, I did say WAVES. The off-season is wave season. More surfers from May to October means more opportunity for the surf gurus as well as the island. And with the surf scene growing, maybe this change will be one for the better.
GoPro HD Surf HERO Camera
But sometimes, change is good. And here is one example that I have had the pleasure to watch evolve. Surf Koh Phayam, located at South Star Surf Bar, is a welcome addition to the island scene. Surfing is healthy and fun - without even mentioning the "zen" thing, simple pleasures or gravity sport adrenaline.
As I watch the number of riders in the water grow from one to six in as many years, I do not fear crowds. There are plenty of other convenient places to ride - but there will not likely be as many places as friendly.
Drop in on me - no problem - I might grab hold of your board and shake it if I know you. Otherwise, I will turn away and look for the next ride. It's always 'the next ride'. Analogies could be made - but there shall be none.
This also brings potential for the off-season, when we have all forgotten our so-called "friends" on the island and lie basking in the western sun and western earnings while they are pounded by rain, wind and WAVES. Yes, I did say WAVES. The off-season is wave season. More surfers from May to October means more opportunity for the surf gurus as well as the island. And with the surf scene growing, maybe this change will be one for the better.
GoPro HD Surf HERO Camera
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Surf Photos, 2010
I am always waiting for waves. Whenever the surf is up, life goes on hold. The logic is simple: we wait for the waves; the waves do not wait for us.
The past few days, the goddess of the sea has been smiling and the waves have been up. With life on hold, I have moved to what I refer to as the ‘head office’ and have enjoyed countless hours of riding. It always brings a huge smile to my face.
The dolphins made a guest appearance the other day. They were so close I thought we might surf the same wave. The family of five was more interested in fish than waves and I rode solo.
When the day is done and the body is crying for rest, sleep is deep. There is nothing like waking before sunrise to the sound of waves crashing on the beach and the prospect of more riding. In honour of the waves, I have posted a few surf shots.
The past few days, the goddess of the sea has been smiling and the waves have been up. With life on hold, I have moved to what I refer to as the ‘head office’ and have enjoyed countless hours of riding. It always brings a huge smile to my face.
The dolphins made a guest appearance the other day. They were so close I thought we might surf the same wave. The family of five was more interested in fish than waves and I rode solo.
When the day is done and the body is crying for rest, sleep is deep. There is nothing like waking before sunrise to the sound of waves crashing on the beach and the prospect of more riding. In honour of the waves, I have posted a few surf shots.
Monday, November 17, 2008
The Secret is Out
Wave Riding on Koh Phayam
The noise of waves crashing wakes me from a deep sleep and I know from the sound that they are substantial. I climb out of bed and a few minutes later I am in the ocean watching the dawn sky transform through a series of pinks and blues. The beach is empty and for a short time I own the place. Moments like this take on a mystical quality and I become philosophical as I reflect on my good fortune.
Outside, a set of waves starts to roll in and I shift into position to catch my first wave. A few quick strokes of my paddle and I am on the shoulder of a 3 footer riding left. Days like this are magical.
What’s the point of trying to keep a secret when it’s far more enjoyable to share the discovery with others? At least with others who would make the trek to this stretch of serene beachfront. My guilty pleasure of the past few years has found me naively guarding the identity of an island in Thailand’s Andaman Sea; an island of pristine beaches, a mere of trickle tourism and, undeniably, surfing waves.
Koh Phayam lies off the coast of Ranong Province very close to the Burma border. Accessible by daily ferries from Ranong town, the island has so far escaped the scourge of overdevelopment. Picture Samui in the ‘70s and you begin to form an appreciation of the island’s habitual quiet. Now add waves.
Aow Yai Beach, a 3km crescent of white sand, is where the occasional bout of good surf can be found. When storms brew in the Bay of Bengal during certain times of the year, an obliging though not overpowering surf makes its way to these shores.
Breaking waves on Aow Yai Beach surprised me the first time I came here. Intrigued with its potential, I spent a couple weeks body surfing, boogie boarding and watching the break. It’s a beach break, but when the swell picks up there are clean lefts and rights, most often at the center of the beach. The prospect of a longer board would provide hours of fun, I imagined.
Deciding to spend a season on Aow Yai I investigated the full range of water toys, starting with surf boards. Airlines typically allow a maximum length of 8’ 10” so a long board was out. Its inherent limitations nudged me to consider kayaks, sailboards and kite boards, with the natural progression of possibilities guiding me to the surf kayak. Flat water paddling options for those no-wave days combined with all the latitude, speed and thrills of a surf board – the surf kayak made its case loud and clear.
My research led me to an Islander “LipStik” – perfect for paddling and, at 8’ 8”, just within airline length regulations. Problem was, the manufacturer had tanked, so the search got a bit more involved. Fortunately, I located a new one in New Jersey, had it shipped to Canada, and I soon flew it to Thailand without a hitch.
On Koh Phayam I was stoked to find that it rides just like a mid-length surf board, fast and quick on the edge. The board moves well in the water and you can chase down almost any wave. With the removable fin off, the board has some slippage but there is no danger of damage and it is easy to perform 360’s. When the waves get larger, I install the fin and it tracks as if on rails.
I’ve enjoyed Aow Yai Beach for five seasons now, riding the waves and claiming exclusive rights to the break. Every season brings with it a few board-less surfers who marvel at the waves. One was Tomer, an Israeli musician and surf fanatic who was so pumped by January’s waves that he used a children’s trainer to chase the surf. Three days offered him enough swell to get some drops.
Next was a Belgian, David, who, coming off of four months in Trat province with only two days of surfing to show for his patience, found immediate satisfaction here. Having brought a board, his first day on Aow Yai welcomed him with swells easily topping a meter. David rode lefts and rights for several hours with wild-eyed excitement. When the sun set and he could ride no more, David called a friend at home and advised him to come immediately. Four days later, Christophe arrived with board in hand.
Moments like this naturally cultivate some chatter. Word gets out and soon others are starting to show up with boards looking for waves.
The best months for surfing are late October into November and April on into May. The monsoon with its powerful WNW winds subsides in October and the winds reverse, becoming offshore, which generates conditions for good left and right beach breaks. Come April and May, just before onslaught of the monsoon, the swell in the Andaman Sea increases and suddenly two meter waves are not uncommon. For long board riders or surf kayakers, December to March pose plenty of opportunities to ride.
Aow Yai accommodates every budget and style with nine bungalow operations lining the beach. Some bungalows have boogie boards for borrow or rent, but they are generally in poor condition. Bring your own equipment and avoid disappointment. If you arrive without a board, you may be lucky enough to rent or borrow something moderately functional from Aow Yai Bungalows or Bamboo Bungalows. The sign hanging in the Rasta Baby Bar is actually a surf board and I’ve seen it ridden in the past.
For those flat days, rent kayaks from several places on the beach. The snorkeling is good at the NW end of the beach and there are plenty of nooks and crannies to discover if you care to paddle a little further.
Great eats beachside and off-beach in Aow Yai Village are plentiful. Recommendations include starting the day at Silver Sand with fresh coffee mixed fruit salad with yogurt; My Barbeque for the fresh fish and nighttime entertainment; and, Café de Cool where chilling out and watching the always remarkable sunset is just one of an abundance of options. Other considerations include noshing at Bamboo Bungalow’s restaurant, the South Star where you can pick away at one of the house guitars over a cold beer, and working your way to down the far end of the beach to Rasta Baby Bar, a perennial favourite with backpackers thanks to its mellow atmosphere.
Just off the beach, Baan Nam Cha serves great food, a variety of teas and fresh baked goods. Next door, Horizon serves complements its Thai menu with fresh Italian pasta. The best massage on the island is at Thitirat’s House – ask for Oiy, she has magic hands that will work out the kinks from a long day in the water.
There are also plenty of other accommodations on other beaches around the island and the village at the pier has restaurants, shops and other services. Internet is widely available with WIFI at some locations.
The atmosphere remains very friendly on the island. Locals are warm and visitors are open and appreciative, which lends itself to a pleasant dynamic for all. Koh Phayam is definitely kid-friendly, as evidenced by the number of young families who enjoy the safe environment.
Although the secret is out, there are few surfers coming to Aow Yai. Hopefully, the waves will oblige and return with regularity. From this vantage point on my surf kayak, I cannot imagine anything more enjoyable than riding waves when a crowd means four, the atmosphere is friendly and the ocean is my playground.
To view surf photos, click here
For more info about other breaks in Thailand, check out:
http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Asia/Thailand/
Who knows, maybe Aow Yai will show up on this site some day.
Copyright, Tim Morch, 2008
The noise of waves crashing wakes me from a deep sleep and I know from the sound that they are substantial. I climb out of bed and a few minutes later I am in the ocean watching the dawn sky transform through a series of pinks and blues. The beach is empty and for a short time I own the place. Moments like this take on a mystical quality and I become philosophical as I reflect on my good fortune.
Outside, a set of waves starts to roll in and I shift into position to catch my first wave. A few quick strokes of my paddle and I am on the shoulder of a 3 footer riding left. Days like this are magical.
What’s the point of trying to keep a secret when it’s far more enjoyable to share the discovery with others? At least with others who would make the trek to this stretch of serene beachfront. My guilty pleasure of the past few years has found me naively guarding the identity of an island in Thailand’s Andaman Sea; an island of pristine beaches, a mere of trickle tourism and, undeniably, surfing waves.
Koh Phayam lies off the coast of Ranong Province very close to the Burma border. Accessible by daily ferries from Ranong town, the island has so far escaped the scourge of overdevelopment. Picture Samui in the ‘70s and you begin to form an appreciation of the island’s habitual quiet. Now add waves.
Aow Yai Beach, a 3km crescent of white sand, is where the occasional bout of good surf can be found. When storms brew in the Bay of Bengal during certain times of the year, an obliging though not overpowering surf makes its way to these shores.
Breaking waves on Aow Yai Beach surprised me the first time I came here. Intrigued with its potential, I spent a couple weeks body surfing, boogie boarding and watching the break. It’s a beach break, but when the swell picks up there are clean lefts and rights, most often at the center of the beach. The prospect of a longer board would provide hours of fun, I imagined.
Deciding to spend a season on Aow Yai I investigated the full range of water toys, starting with surf boards. Airlines typically allow a maximum length of 8’ 10” so a long board was out. Its inherent limitations nudged me to consider kayaks, sailboards and kite boards, with the natural progression of possibilities guiding me to the surf kayak. Flat water paddling options for those no-wave days combined with all the latitude, speed and thrills of a surf board – the surf kayak made its case loud and clear.
My research led me to an Islander “LipStik” – perfect for paddling and, at 8’ 8”, just within airline length regulations. Problem was, the manufacturer had tanked, so the search got a bit more involved. Fortunately, I located a new one in New Jersey, had it shipped to Canada, and I soon flew it to Thailand without a hitch.
On Koh Phayam I was stoked to find that it rides just like a mid-length surf board, fast and quick on the edge. The board moves well in the water and you can chase down almost any wave. With the removable fin off, the board has some slippage but there is no danger of damage and it is easy to perform 360’s. When the waves get larger, I install the fin and it tracks as if on rails.
I’ve enjoyed Aow Yai Beach for five seasons now, riding the waves and claiming exclusive rights to the break. Every season brings with it a few board-less surfers who marvel at the waves. One was Tomer, an Israeli musician and surf fanatic who was so pumped by January’s waves that he used a children’s trainer to chase the surf. Three days offered him enough swell to get some drops.
Next was a Belgian, David, who, coming off of four months in Trat province with only two days of surfing to show for his patience, found immediate satisfaction here. Having brought a board, his first day on Aow Yai welcomed him with swells easily topping a meter. David rode lefts and rights for several hours with wild-eyed excitement. When the sun set and he could ride no more, David called a friend at home and advised him to come immediately. Four days later, Christophe arrived with board in hand.
Moments like this naturally cultivate some chatter. Word gets out and soon others are starting to show up with boards looking for waves.
The best months for surfing are late October into November and April on into May. The monsoon with its powerful WNW winds subsides in October and the winds reverse, becoming offshore, which generates conditions for good left and right beach breaks. Come April and May, just before onslaught of the monsoon, the swell in the Andaman Sea increases and suddenly two meter waves are not uncommon. For long board riders or surf kayakers, December to March pose plenty of opportunities to ride.
Aow Yai accommodates every budget and style with nine bungalow operations lining the beach. Some bungalows have boogie boards for borrow or rent, but they are generally in poor condition. Bring your own equipment and avoid disappointment. If you arrive without a board, you may be lucky enough to rent or borrow something moderately functional from Aow Yai Bungalows or Bamboo Bungalows. The sign hanging in the Rasta Baby Bar is actually a surf board and I’ve seen it ridden in the past.
For those flat days, rent kayaks from several places on the beach. The snorkeling is good at the NW end of the beach and there are plenty of nooks and crannies to discover if you care to paddle a little further.
Great eats beachside and off-beach in Aow Yai Village are plentiful. Recommendations include starting the day at Silver Sand with fresh coffee mixed fruit salad with yogurt; My Barbeque for the fresh fish and nighttime entertainment; and, Café de Cool where chilling out and watching the always remarkable sunset is just one of an abundance of options. Other considerations include noshing at Bamboo Bungalow’s restaurant, the South Star where you can pick away at one of the house guitars over a cold beer, and working your way to down the far end of the beach to Rasta Baby Bar, a perennial favourite with backpackers thanks to its mellow atmosphere.
Just off the beach, Baan Nam Cha serves great food, a variety of teas and fresh baked goods. Next door, Horizon serves complements its Thai menu with fresh Italian pasta. The best massage on the island is at Thitirat’s House – ask for Oiy, she has magic hands that will work out the kinks from a long day in the water.
There are also plenty of other accommodations on other beaches around the island and the village at the pier has restaurants, shops and other services. Internet is widely available with WIFI at some locations.
The atmosphere remains very friendly on the island. Locals are warm and visitors are open and appreciative, which lends itself to a pleasant dynamic for all. Koh Phayam is definitely kid-friendly, as evidenced by the number of young families who enjoy the safe environment.
Although the secret is out, there are few surfers coming to Aow Yai. Hopefully, the waves will oblige and return with regularity. From this vantage point on my surf kayak, I cannot imagine anything more enjoyable than riding waves when a crowd means four, the atmosphere is friendly and the ocean is my playground.
To view surf photos, click here
For more info about other breaks in Thailand, check out:
http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Asia/Thailand/
Who knows, maybe Aow Yai will show up on this site some day.
Copyright, Tim Morch, 2008
Sunday, November 16, 2003
Cons and Cards
A Not-So New Bangkok Scam
Exhausted from over a day of non-stop travel, I exited the Bangkok airport into the heavy heat of the city. The familiar assault to the senses was instant. The humid air encircled me and exhaust fumes hit the back of the throat like cheap pot. he non-stop noise characteristic of the city rattled in my ears as the taxi pulled away.
Even in the wee hours the streets are lively. Motorcycles and tuk-tuks are everywhere. The tuk-tuk, the ubiquitous three-wheeled taxis that ply the streets of every Thai city and town get their name for the rhythmic sound of the engine. They have become a symbol of Thailand.
Tuk-tuk drivers in Bangkok have become equally famous for their gem scams. irtually everyone who visits Bangkok has either heard of or experienced this renowned confidence game. Invariably, stories start by accepting a "flee lide" (free ride) to a "guess how" (Guest House). The driver will tell you that just last week he helped a friend earn $2000 due to a special offer. An “official receipt” is often produced as verification. This is the short version, as a successful scam involves a lengthy buildup. Ever wonder why it is called a confidence game?
The classic version sees the mark on a city wide tour of gem shops. A variety of characters attempt to sell gems that turn out to be worthless. If the unlucky victim can even lead the police to the scene, the operation has vanished. This happens so often it has become a joke. A special sale in honor of the Kings Birthday or a new shipment from Burma leaves one with less money but more wise. In spite of repeated forewarning, many fall victim to their own greed.
Thailands reputation as the "Land of Smiles" often lulls people into a sense of security. The Kingdom is filled with many wonderful, honest people. If you are even slightly open, rewarding experiences are common.
On a busy Bangkok street, I met a pleasant man and his cousin. Lek introduced himself as an immigration officer at the airport.His cousin Emm taught English at the kindergarten level in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. When they learned I was Canadian, they told me their cousin, Susan, had won an exchange at the University of Toronto to study business administration. Asking if they could trouble me for some information about Toronto, we sat down for coffee. Lek spotted my photo equipment and observed it looked very professional, very expensive. After a polite conversation, he asked would I might come to his home, meet his family and talk to Susan in person.
Sensing a setup, we agreed to meet the following morning. Emm gave me her cell phone number in case there was a problem. They suggested I bring my camera for photos of their traditional home and the family.
The following morning, we met and climbed into a taxi. Lek asked where my camera was. Did I not want photos? I explained that I had left where I was staying. I did not add that they were crazy if they thought I would bring such valuables on a mission to who knows where with who knows whom!
The home was on a quite soi (street) and quite modern. It was definitely not “traditional”. There were no photos or other family items and it struck me particularly odd there was no photo of the King. There was, however, a large television, DVD player and stereo.
Lek introduced me to his brother Alex and a cousin Pim who was cooking breakfast in a spartan kitchen. Alex apologized that I would not meet his mother, she had just been admitted to the hospital. I then learned Alexs wife was having a baby and Susan was also at the hospital. Lek hoped she would return soon.
After pleasantries, I was invited to the table to eat and wait for Susan. Pim prepared a special “western” meal for me. I thanked her and asked if I might share the Thai food with everyone else.
During the meal, Alex took over. He told me about his work aboard a cruise ship dealing cards in the casino, sharing anecdotes about the winnings and losses of his clients. He told me of a certain Madame Sara, daughter of a Malaysian millionaire, who had lost $30,000 the day before playing Mah Jong. The good Madame, Alex lamented, was tight with her money, and in lieu of the customary 5% tip on winnings and losses had only tipped $100US. He was not upset, adding she was coming to take him out later that day.
Alex and Lek said I was welcome in their home any time. Alex invited me to attend the Christening of his child, which I found odd given that most Thai are Buddhist. Although more red flags flew in my mind, I felt safe and was interested to see where this would lead.
After lunch, Alex invited me upstairs to his card room to see some tricks. He deftly demonstrated a number of entertaining sleights of hand. He asked if I played cards. Would I like to learn a game called “Black Jack”. After all, if he could not teach me then he must be a poor dealer.
I allowed Alex to teach me, feigning ignorance. After I learned the basics, including how to bet, he told me that any time I needed some extra cash, I could come to his casino and he would help me win. He assured me that as the dealer he had control over the game. He then taught me a few simple signals to direct me to a guaranteed win. If I had no money to play with, he could bankroll me, taking 70% of winnings. f I invested my own money, we would split it 50/50. It was as easy as that.
Alex felt that he had my confidence. He asked if I would like to play today. Madame Sara was coming soon and loved to play Black Jack. Pulling two crisp $100US notes from his pocket, Alex offered to bankroll me and I could help him earn some money to pay for his wifes hospital bill. In case I was worried, he assured me that I could even lose the $200 and we would still be friends. In an attempt to sweeten the offer, Alex told me Madame Sara was beautiful and had a penchant for foreign men.
I told Alex I was not interested. He re-assured me I would win, he would win and, had he mentioned that he donates some of the winning to charity? There was no risk. Once more, I declined. Alex continued in his attempt to lure me into a game. Emm, who had remained quietly by my side, also tried to convince me to play.
Quietly, but firmly, I explained that I had come to talk to Susan about Toronto. I had no desire to play cards … period. After more efforts failed to persuade me, Alex said he understood. He was only trying to cover hospital costs and support charity.
Now that I was not "in", Alex took me downstairs where Lek said we should return downtown. I asked if Susan were not coming, still feigning ignorance of the scam attempt. I was told she might be at the hospital a while. Nonetheless, I delayed, explaining that I would be happy to wait.
After over an hour, I could delay no longer. Lek was anxious to get me out of the house. In the taxi, Lek pulled out a 1000 Baht bill and asked if I had change. Responding that I had only 100 Baht (about $2.50US), Lek asked if he could have it to cover the highway toll. Handing over the bill, he paid the 30 Baht toll. He was about to pocket the change when I told him I needed it for the bus back to my place. Begrudgingly, Lek handed me the change.
As the taxi stopped, I asked Lek if I could visit him at the airport. He gave his surname and explained how to find him. Climbing out of the taxi, I said: "Tell Susan, if there even is a Susan, it is cold in Toronto, she should take warm clothes." Realizing he had been exposed, he smiled in true Thai fashion and wished me well.
Laughing, I could not help but appreciate the entertainment. While gem scams are plentiful in Bangkok, it appears that cons and cards are evolving into the citys lore.
Tim Morch, Copyright 2003
Exhausted from over a day of non-stop travel, I exited the Bangkok airport into the heavy heat of the city. The familiar assault to the senses was instant. The humid air encircled me and exhaust fumes hit the back of the throat like cheap pot. he non-stop noise characteristic of the city rattled in my ears as the taxi pulled away.
Even in the wee hours the streets are lively. Motorcycles and tuk-tuks are everywhere. The tuk-tuk, the ubiquitous three-wheeled taxis that ply the streets of every Thai city and town get their name for the rhythmic sound of the engine. They have become a symbol of Thailand.
Tuk-tuk drivers in Bangkok have become equally famous for their gem scams. irtually everyone who visits Bangkok has either heard of or experienced this renowned confidence game. Invariably, stories start by accepting a "flee lide" (free ride) to a "guess how" (Guest House). The driver will tell you that just last week he helped a friend earn $2000 due to a special offer. An “official receipt” is often produced as verification. This is the short version, as a successful scam involves a lengthy buildup. Ever wonder why it is called a confidence game?
The classic version sees the mark on a city wide tour of gem shops. A variety of characters attempt to sell gems that turn out to be worthless. If the unlucky victim can even lead the police to the scene, the operation has vanished. This happens so often it has become a joke. A special sale in honor of the Kings Birthday or a new shipment from Burma leaves one with less money but more wise. In spite of repeated forewarning, many fall victim to their own greed.
Thailands reputation as the "Land of Smiles" often lulls people into a sense of security. The Kingdom is filled with many wonderful, honest people. If you are even slightly open, rewarding experiences are common.
On a busy Bangkok street, I met a pleasant man and his cousin. Lek introduced himself as an immigration officer at the airport.His cousin Emm taught English at the kindergarten level in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. When they learned I was Canadian, they told me their cousin, Susan, had won an exchange at the University of Toronto to study business administration. Asking if they could trouble me for some information about Toronto, we sat down for coffee. Lek spotted my photo equipment and observed it looked very professional, very expensive. After a polite conversation, he asked would I might come to his home, meet his family and talk to Susan in person.
Sensing a setup, we agreed to meet the following morning. Emm gave me her cell phone number in case there was a problem. They suggested I bring my camera for photos of their traditional home and the family.
The following morning, we met and climbed into a taxi. Lek asked where my camera was. Did I not want photos? I explained that I had left where I was staying. I did not add that they were crazy if they thought I would bring such valuables on a mission to who knows where with who knows whom!
The home was on a quite soi (street) and quite modern. It was definitely not “traditional”. There were no photos or other family items and it struck me particularly odd there was no photo of the King. There was, however, a large television, DVD player and stereo.
Lek introduced me to his brother Alex and a cousin Pim who was cooking breakfast in a spartan kitchen. Alex apologized that I would not meet his mother, she had just been admitted to the hospital. I then learned Alexs wife was having a baby and Susan was also at the hospital. Lek hoped she would return soon.
After pleasantries, I was invited to the table to eat and wait for Susan. Pim prepared a special “western” meal for me. I thanked her and asked if I might share the Thai food with everyone else.
During the meal, Alex took over. He told me about his work aboard a cruise ship dealing cards in the casino, sharing anecdotes about the winnings and losses of his clients. He told me of a certain Madame Sara, daughter of a Malaysian millionaire, who had lost $30,000 the day before playing Mah Jong. The good Madame, Alex lamented, was tight with her money, and in lieu of the customary 5% tip on winnings and losses had only tipped $100US. He was not upset, adding she was coming to take him out later that day.
Alex and Lek said I was welcome in their home any time. Alex invited me to attend the Christening of his child, which I found odd given that most Thai are Buddhist. Although more red flags flew in my mind, I felt safe and was interested to see where this would lead.
After lunch, Alex invited me upstairs to his card room to see some tricks. He deftly demonstrated a number of entertaining sleights of hand. He asked if I played cards. Would I like to learn a game called “Black Jack”. After all, if he could not teach me then he must be a poor dealer.
I allowed Alex to teach me, feigning ignorance. After I learned the basics, including how to bet, he told me that any time I needed some extra cash, I could come to his casino and he would help me win. He assured me that as the dealer he had control over the game. He then taught me a few simple signals to direct me to a guaranteed win. If I had no money to play with, he could bankroll me, taking 70% of winnings. f I invested my own money, we would split it 50/50. It was as easy as that.
Alex felt that he had my confidence. He asked if I would like to play today. Madame Sara was coming soon and loved to play Black Jack. Pulling two crisp $100US notes from his pocket, Alex offered to bankroll me and I could help him earn some money to pay for his wifes hospital bill. In case I was worried, he assured me that I could even lose the $200 and we would still be friends. In an attempt to sweeten the offer, Alex told me Madame Sara was beautiful and had a penchant for foreign men.
I told Alex I was not interested. He re-assured me I would win, he would win and, had he mentioned that he donates some of the winning to charity? There was no risk. Once more, I declined. Alex continued in his attempt to lure me into a game. Emm, who had remained quietly by my side, also tried to convince me to play.
Quietly, but firmly, I explained that I had come to talk to Susan about Toronto. I had no desire to play cards … period. After more efforts failed to persuade me, Alex said he understood. He was only trying to cover hospital costs and support charity.
Now that I was not "in", Alex took me downstairs where Lek said we should return downtown. I asked if Susan were not coming, still feigning ignorance of the scam attempt. I was told she might be at the hospital a while. Nonetheless, I delayed, explaining that I would be happy to wait.
After over an hour, I could delay no longer. Lek was anxious to get me out of the house. In the taxi, Lek pulled out a 1000 Baht bill and asked if I had change. Responding that I had only 100 Baht (about $2.50US), Lek asked if he could have it to cover the highway toll. Handing over the bill, he paid the 30 Baht toll. He was about to pocket the change when I told him I needed it for the bus back to my place. Begrudgingly, Lek handed me the change.
As the taxi stopped, I asked Lek if I could visit him at the airport. He gave his surname and explained how to find him. Climbing out of the taxi, I said: "Tell Susan, if there even is a Susan, it is cold in Toronto, she should take warm clothes." Realizing he had been exposed, he smiled in true Thai fashion and wished me well.
Laughing, I could not help but appreciate the entertainment. While gem scams are plentiful in Bangkok, it appears that cons and cards are evolving into the citys lore.
Tim Morch, Copyright 2003
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