Surf Koh Phayam

It's one of those things we never look forward to, yet something we shall never evade. It's called change. It comes in many forms, wags as many tails as it tells tales and rarely delivers the goods.

But sometimes, change is good. And here is one example that I have had the pleasure to watch evolve. Surf Koh Phayam, located at South Star Surf Bar, is a welcome addition to the island scene. Surfing is healthy and fun - without even mentioning the "zen" thing, simple pleasures or gravity sport adrenaline.

As I watch the number of riders in the water grow from one to six in as many years, I do not fear crowds. There are plenty of other convenient places to ride - but there will not likely be as many places as friendly.

Drop in on me - no problem - I might grab hold of your board and shake it if I know you. Otherwise, I will turn away and look for the next ride. It's always 'the next ride'. Analogies could be made - but there shall be none.

This also brings potential for the off-season, when we have all forgotten our so-called "friends" on the island and lie basking in the western sun and western earnings while they are pounded by rain, wind and WAVES. Yes, I did say WAVES. The off-season is wave season. More surfers from May to October means more opportunity for the surf gurus as well as the island. And with the surf scene growing, maybe this change will be one for the better.


GoPro HD Surf HERO Camera

Surf Photos, 2010

I am always waiting for waves. Whenever the surf is up, life goes on hold. The logic is simple: we wait for the waves; the waves do not wait for us.

The past few days, the goddess of the sea has been smiling and the waves have been up. With life on hold, I have moved to what I refer to as the ‘head office’ and have enjoyed countless hours of riding. It always brings a huge smile to my face.

The dolphins made a guest appearance the other day. They were so close I thought we might surf the same wave. The family of five was more interested in fish than waves and I rode solo.

When the day is done and the body is crying for rest, sleep is deep. There is nothing like waking before sunrise to the sound of waves crashing on the beach and the prospect of more riding. In honour of the waves, I have posted a few surf shots.

The Secret is Out

Wave Riding on Koh Phayam

The noise of waves crashing wakes me from a deep sleep and I know from the sound that they are substantial. I climb out of bed and a few minutes later I am in the ocean watching the dawn sky transform through a series of pinks and blues. The beach is empty and for a short time I own the place. Moments like this take on a mystical quality and I become philosophical as I reflect on my good fortune.

Outside, a set of waves starts to roll in and I shift into position to catch my first wave. A few quick strokes of my paddle and I am on the shoulder of a 3 footer riding left. Days like this are magical.

What’s the point of trying to keep a secret when it’s far more enjoyable to share the discovery with others? At least with others who would make the trek to this stretch of serene beachfront. My guilty pleasure of the past few years has found me naively guarding the identity of an island in Thailand’s Andaman Sea; an island of pristine beaches, a mere of trickle tourism and, undeniably, surfing waves.

Koh Phayam lies off the coast of Ranong Province very close to the Burma border. Accessible by daily ferries from Ranong town, the island has so far escaped the scourge of overdevelopment. Picture Samui in the ‘70s and you begin to form an appreciation of the island’s habitual quiet. Now add waves.

Aow Yai Beach, a 3km crescent of white sand, is where the occasional bout of good surf can be found. When storms brew in the Bay of Bengal during certain times of the year, an obliging though not overpowering surf makes its way to these shores.

Breaking waves on Aow Yai Beach surprised me the first time I came here. Intrigued with its potential, I spent a couple weeks body surfing, boogie boarding and watching the break. It’s a beach break, but when the swell picks up there are clean lefts and rights, most often at the center of the beach. The prospect of a longer board would provide hours of fun, I imagined.

Deciding to spend a season on Aow Yai I investigated the full range of water toys, starting with surf boards. Airlines typically allow a maximum length of 8’ 10” so a long board was out. Its inherent limitations nudged me to consider kayaks, sailboards and kite boards, with the natural progression of possibilities guiding me to the surf kayak. Flat water paddling options for those no-wave days combined with all the latitude, speed and thrills of a surf board – the surf kayak made its case loud and clear.

My research led me to an Islander “LipStik” – perfect for paddling and, at 8’ 8”, just within airline length regulations. Problem was, the manufacturer had tanked, so the search got a bit more involved. Fortunately, I located a new one in New Jersey, had it shipped to Canada, and I soon flew it to Thailand without a hitch.

On Koh Phayam I was stoked to find that it rides just like a mid-length surf board, fast and quick on the edge. The board moves well in the water and you can chase down almost any wave. With the removable fin off, the board has some slippage but there is no danger of damage and it is easy to perform 360’s. When the waves get larger, I install the fin and it tracks as if on rails.

I’ve enjoyed Aow Yai Beach for five seasons now, riding the waves and claiming exclusive rights to the break. Every season brings with it a few board-less surfers who marvel at the waves. One was Tomer, an Israeli musician and surf fanatic who was so pumped by January’s waves that he used a children’s trainer to chase the surf. Three days offered him enough swell to get some drops.

Next was a Belgian, David, who, coming off of four months in Trat province with only two days of surfing to show for his patience, found immediate satisfaction here. Having brought a board, his first day on Aow Yai welcomed him with swells easily topping a meter. David rode lefts and rights for several hours with wild-eyed excitement. When the sun set and he could ride no more, David called a friend at home and advised him to come immediately. Four days later, Christophe arrived with board in hand.

Moments like this naturally cultivate some chatter. Word gets out and soon others are starting to show up with boards looking for waves.

The best months for surfing are late October into November and April on into May. The monsoon with its powerful WNW winds subsides in October and the winds reverse, becoming offshore, which generates conditions for good left and right beach breaks. Come April and May, just before onslaught of the monsoon, the swell in the Andaman Sea increases and suddenly two meter waves are not uncommon. For long board riders or surf kayakers, December to March pose plenty of opportunities to ride.

Aow Yai accommodates every budget and style with nine bungalow operations lining the beach. Some bungalows have boogie boards for borrow or rent, but they are generally in poor condition. Bring your own equipment and avoid disappointment. If you arrive without a board, you may be lucky enough to rent or borrow something moderately functional from Aow Yai Bungalows or Bamboo Bungalows. The sign hanging in the Rasta Baby Bar is actually a surf board and I’ve seen it ridden in the past.

For those flat days, rent kayaks from several places on the beach. The snorkeling is good at the NW end of the beach and there are plenty of nooks and crannies to discover if you care to paddle a little further.

Great eats beachside and off-beach in Aow Yai Village are plentiful. Recommendations include starting the day at Silver Sand with fresh coffee mixed fruit salad with yogurt; My Barbeque for the fresh fish and nighttime entertainment; and, Café de Cool where chilling out and watching the always remarkable sunset is just one of an abundance of options. Other considerations include noshing at Bamboo Bungalow’s restaurant, the South Star where you can pick away at one of the house guitars over a cold beer, and working your way to down the far end of the beach to Rasta Baby Bar, a perennial favourite with backpackers thanks to its mellow atmosphere.

Just off the beach, Baan Nam Cha serves great food, a variety of teas and fresh baked goods. Next door, Horizon serves complements its Thai menu with fresh Italian pasta. The best massage on the island is at Thitirat’s House – ask for Oiy, she has magic hands that will work out the kinks from a long day in the water.

There are also plenty of other accommodations on other beaches around the island and the village at the pier has restaurants, shops and other services. Internet is widely available with WIFI at some locations.

The atmosphere remains very friendly on the island. Locals are warm and visitors are open and appreciative, which lends itself to a pleasant dynamic for all. Koh Phayam is definitely kid-friendly, as evidenced by the number of young families who enjoy the safe environment.

Although the secret is out, there are few surfers coming to Aow Yai. Hopefully, the waves will oblige and return with regularity. From this vantage point on my surf kayak, I cannot imagine anything more enjoyable than riding waves when a crowd means four, the atmosphere is friendly and the ocean is my playground.

To view surf photos, click here

For more info about other breaks in Thailand, check out:
http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Asia/Thailand/
Who knows, maybe Aow Yai will show up on this site some day.


Copyright, Tim Morch, 2008

Surf Heaven

One morning at breakfast, I overheard a 50-something Australian talking about Bali “back in the day.” Surf stories hold a startling similarity to fishing tales: the one “this long” (arms stretched to incredulous length) that got away or the “really big one” I landed on some distant vacation but didn’t have a camera. I eavesdropped but was inclined to file the tale as ‘unlikely’. Perhaps it was my snicker that prompted the guy next to me to speak up. He knew the storyteller and assured me he did indeed have bragging rights as one of the first to surf the now legendary break at Ulu Watu.

When Kuta Beach was still a maze of rice paddies and the beach break became boring, intrepid surfers were discovering breaks in unusual locations. The vantage points from the dusty footpath along the cliff tops of the Bukit Peninsula made it was easy to spot potential breaks. Descending the sheer cliffs, getting out across the jagged reef to the break and returning safely was and remains the challenge. Early pioneers were undoubtedly considered crazy as they climbed down ropes to the cave that opens to Ulu Watu, especially as the Balinese feared the sea. To do this, they employed a small army of board carriers, rope attendants and cliff-top monitors, creating a new tourism market as a result: surfing.

Surfers stayed with local families before there were any guest houses or hotels. Families cooked, cleaned and provided related services. Relationships were forged that helped shape the future of the local economy. Locals rented surf boards their friends left behind, learned to repair them and local board shapers and manufacturing developed. To serve the surge in surf tourists, an abundance of accommodation, restaurants and bars close to every major break emerged. A generation later, young Balinese surfers are gaining worldwide recognition amongst professional surfers.

Today, the surf industry is a major component of Bali’s tourism. Bali is loaded with surf breaks; some well-known, others secret locations whispered between friends and kindred spirits. Gone are the days of knowing everybody on the break. Modern Bali is one of the Holy Grail destinations for surfers from around the world and the most popular breaks are often crowded. The long beach break at Kuta is suited to the masses of beginners. Experienced surfers flock to the Bukit Peninsula and the legendary Ulu Watu, nearby Dreamland, Bingin or Impossibles. Even late in the season, the breaks have several people vying for waves.

By chance, I discovered a ‘secret spot’ further up the east coast than one might expect the waves to be breaking. It was easy to spot from the cliff top to the north, but surfers rarely venture that far in search of a break. After winding through rice paddies and palm plantations, I emerged at a consistent point break. It was the personal playground of fewer than fifteen locals and three foreigners. This is what draws surfers to Bali repeatedly – known world class surf breaks and the chance for someone to whisper a secret spot in your ear.


Copyright Tim Morch, 2006