The Coconut Telegraph Issue 20

Anyone who stays on Koh Phayam for a length of time knows just how cyclical the island is. From mid-October until mid-December, there are few foreigners, the vibe is mellow and there are plenty of opportunities to get to know the local people, rekindle relationships and enjoy some quiet time in their company. This time of the year is a particular favourite of mine.

The switch gets flipped somewhere around December 20th when the holiday-makers arrive in droves. Gone is the backpack toting, wannabe hippy crowd - welcome to the suitcase with wheels world. Space is tight, rates are raised as everyone wants those elusive Euros and dollars. People are too busy to remember to breath and everyone starts the whine that they are working too hard.

Things level out somewhat in March and the downturn in arrivals is gradual. This season, the weather was very unusual and March saw a lot of rain. It damaged the cashew crop and the psyche of tourists, who left in flocks. The island was deserted and it seemed as though that peaceful "end of season" period was upon us. Then, along comes Songkran - Thai New Year - and along come the expats on holiday, along come the Thais and along comes the water. Songkran is always a special time of year in small communities like Koh Phayam. Here, the flavour is participation not aggravation. Sure, you might find some cold water, or colored powder, but that comes from someone you know - someone to whom you can return the favour.

My last days on Koh Phayam delivered fantastic surf! Check out the Beach Report for a full breakdown. To view surf photos, click here.

As happens every year, I visited my Weaving for Women friends in Sangkhlaburi, near the Three Pagodas Pass Burmese border crossing. It has been a tough year for them as tourism was especially low this year following the October clashes on the border, poor weather, a dismal world economy and so on. Nonetheless, I am continually impressed by their endurance, survival skills and above all continued ability to smile in the midst of all these trials and tribulations. The town continues to change with each passing day.

Check out the full edition of The Coconut Telegraph. Click here.

And so, it is time to pack up, carry on and return to try and find some elusive dollars for the next adventure.

The Coconut Telegraph, Volume 11

The more things change the more they stay the same. This is one of those axioms that is oft repeated but not as frequently appreciated. I see the change happening on the island and as much as I like to recall "the good old days", I must also accept that in the grand scheme of things nothing has really changed. There is simply more of it. Koh Phayam remains a paradise.

People come and people go - this is a recurring theme when you live in a travelers' paradise for a longer period of time. After all, not everybody has months on end to be a bum, relax, play some sport and live life. How fortunate.

The Cashew Nut Festival came and went with the usual shenanigans. If you have never been to a Cashew Nut Festival you should experience one. That way you will know exactly what every other one was like and what future festivals will be. The events managed to be cobbled together without too many hiccups and the bars and restaurants lining the street were biggest success stories. Football was the sport highlight, with the Koh Chang team winning the tournament and then turning around and donating the prize money to the temple here on the island. There was a volleyball tourney and a half-assed attempt at kayak racing. Naturally, the parties on both nights were the highlights for most of the attendees.

There continue to be a lot of motorcycle crashes. Some incidents involve our old friend "alchohol", some excess speed, most a combination of both. The result, however, is usually the same - lots of bandages, a daily visit to the clinic and a repair bill.

"The Canadians" returned en masse from various locations around the globe and had a blast. They truly demonstrated what it means to have fun. Their antics were witnessed from Aow Yai Beach to the village and even as far as Buffalo Bay. Truth be told, the people on the Burma side are still recovering from their overnighter to Victoria Point to drink Burma draft.

There seems to be a flurry of building on the road from Smile Hut and along. Massage Oiy is building a new shop opposite Porn. She will offer a variety of coffee, fresh baked products, wifi and more. It will be a nice wifi zone with a comfortable atmosphere.

Spring is in the air. Enjoy.

If you liked "A Better Burnout", check out the video version.

Click to read the complete edition of Volume 11.